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East Face
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Fellowship, The 
Humungous Woosey 
Luca and the Fishes 
Southeast Arete 

The Fellowship 

5.10+ A4 X

   

FA: Steiger, Fig, 1982
Type: Aid
Consensus: 5.10+ A4 [details]
Length: 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade VI
Views: 463 page views

Submitted By: rickd on May 23, 2007


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Description 

  • note, as an important part of the adventure the route will only be described briefly.

the route begins out of the tree above the bivy with mixed hard free and hard aid climbing. The pitch beginning about a full rope length above lion's ledge is the free crux of the route. This extremely long pitch has the crux near its end without any quality gear below you. This climbing was the culmination of the duos efforts some 25 years ago to push new grade 6 routes up a the largest wall in Southern Arizona. Without rope failure a deck fall may still be possible from this point. After the completion of this pitch, the route soon joins "Dreams" for a pitch before branching off to the summit via its own line.


Location 

Right of the Spring on Lion's Ledge is a good tree and flat area ideal for bivy. (This is left of the rock base of "Luca's" chopped out arch). the climb begins out of the tree.


Protection 

Standard Desert Rack, pins to 3", all hooks, heads.



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By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 16, 2008

rickd, any idea what year this was FA?

By Paul Davidson
Dec 17, 2008

I believe the FA was '78.
JS prowls here occasionally, if he can remember.

By rickd
Dec 17, 2008

The last route done by fig/steiger. Waugh told me (in Aug '89) that the pin stash was maintained for the 1982 year just off the main trail near the cutoff for Lion's Ledge (marked by dead limbs or agave stalks). Grossman and Waugh also used this stash for Cradle of Stone, done 12/18-12/21 1982 (from Grossman's topo posted over at supertaco).

I was given a set of topos by waugh with the expressed understanding they would never be copied or distributed (orders from JS). I destroyed them after Kerry published them in the backcountry book...