note, as an important part of the adventure the pitches will be described briefly. The first 4 pitches have seen a "no beta" second, thus parties should be comfortable on Babo aid before attempting.
pitches 1-3 lead through chopped arch roof and to the left corner of large roof section ("Dreams" skirts to right of this feature). pitches 4-5 lead to a pendulum into the Fellowship's crux free pitch (the 5.9R section of Luca). FA party refused to drill on Steiger's "tour de force" and instead the leader ended they pitch by tying off to a bush at his feet while the second jumared the leaders waist loop. The following pitch (5.8X) leads into a 5.10 corner tree pitch below the "bowl" on the Spring route and joins for the balance of the wall.
right of the bivy area (which is right of spring proper) is a "chopped out arch". Climbing begins on left side and climbs through right side of roof. An intermediate belay was drilled on the 2nd partial ascent.
Protection
standard desert rack, heads and circles, all hooks, pins to 2" including horizontal Rurps. Ball nuts helpful.
done over 3 months in the fall of 1989. Jim Boyer (who soloed the first 4 pitches) felt that this was one of the best east side routes- the best being his "Spaghetti Western", which IS the black streak. Name of route derived from the Luca Brasi's demise in the Godfather.
East Face
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