|124 page views|
To find this route, look at the directions under the route called 'Raising Arizona'. This route is 10 feet to the right.
This is a good route that sees very little traffic. Ease up to the first bolt via good edges and pockets on the right. From here, it is pretty continuous cranking on pockets and edges that vary between super positive and super disappointing. There wasn't any chalk on the route, which led to a lot of desperate groping to find which of the holds (if any) were good. The rock is mostly the polished grey/black stuff and is generally very good quality. However, a few patches of soft tan stuff show where holds have come off. Some of the edges kind of felt nerf-like to me, but I think my imagination might have been running wild. The crux (for me) was the direct finish to the anchors, but it is very possible (and plausible) to trend right to the ramp at this point.
Either bring hangers or top out and hike down the gully to the east. If you bring hangers, be careful because the studs don't extend out from the wall far enough for the nut to be fully engaged on the bolt.
4 bolts and hangerless anchors.