Arizona Flyways 5.11b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Scott Ayers, Mike Head |
| Season: | Fall, Winter, Spring |
| Submitted By: | WSnyder on Mar 22, 2006 |
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Wing Ng snagging the redpoint!
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Description Looking for mid 11 sport? This is one of the best ones to do and has been a good project for many climbers in the past. Face climb edges through several bolts to thin crack w/ small flats and up a few more bolts to a slightly more vertical section where it is possible to rest. Up and left on a couple of larger holds, decide whether to go straight up or cut left around corner and up to ledge (anchors).
Location Located on the south toe of the tower.
Protection Bolts, Chains
Doug Cornick on the final steep moves of AZ Flyway...
| Pumpy and super fan route!! Marc Vilaplana on the ...
| Doug again
| Erica
| Calvin near the top of Arizona Flyways. Jan 09.
| Working through the middle section on Arizona Flyw...
| BETA PHOTO: New start to AZ Flyways.
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| Comments on Arizona Flyways |
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By Desicon Apr 7, 2006
| WSnyder,do you have a bolt count for this route? Are the bolts sufficient for the climb, or are there any natural placements available along this line to supplement the fixed pro? Were you able to determine if the climb had a single crux section, or was the entire route a sustained 5.11? I've heard this line is easier for those who have a good deal of hand strength and a lot of upper body endurance -- did you likewise find it to be largely a series of pullups, or were you able to use your feet to good purpose as well? How does this climb compare with the similarly rated Bubblenutz? |
By WSnyder Apr 8, 2006
| I do not know how many bolts there are but it has enough. I cannot say you won't get hurt if you fall, you shouldn't but you could. The route is fairly long and somewhat pumpy with a crux that you will readily recognize when you get to it. Good footwork is always important regardless of the grade or steepness of the route although EMk says "Good footwork gets in the way of strength training." so it is your choice to efficiently use your feet or not. Good footwork on this route is possible and could be helpful. This route in my opinion is far better than Bubblenutz. |
By dcohn May 28, 2006 rating: 5.11c
| There are probably not more that 10 bolts. There are only a few really hard moves, but a lot of smaller holds add up and this route gets pumpy. |
By Joseph Stover From: Santa Barbara, CA Jun 5, 2006 rating: 5.11b/c
| This is a great route, a very fair and sutained 11. I feel that "Just Do It" was a little harder if not at last the same grade as "Arizona Flyways". There are many interesting moves. Watch out for the glue! Lots of good holds that sound hollow, but feel strong. This is definitely a good project route for someone trying to break into 11. I need to work on a redpoint! |
By 1Eric Rhicard Apr 9, 2008
| Getting to the first bolt is 5.9. If the dead manzanita you start on ever breaks it will get harder. If you are really worried stick clip the first bolt if that is what is holding you back. A high starting bolt (that can be stick clipped) is not a good reason to avoid getting on things. |
By Mark and Stacy Egan Nov 8, 2008 rating: 5.11
| The dead manzanita tree was still able support my weight today and there are huge holds between the tree and the bolt(5.8?). A stick clip does not seem necessary at all. Great climb! |
By Andy Bennett From: Tucson, AZ Dec 15, 2008
| i notice some glue up there, has there been chipping too? |
By Paul Davidson Dec 17, 2008
| One good argument for the stick clip is to prevent impalement on the punji stick that so often occurs when manzanita breaks. If you want to stick clip, do it. If you want to put in extra gear, do it. If you want to run it, bypass bolts, 3rd class, etc... do it. Safety is a state of mind and one should never let peer pressure decide how you will lead a climb. The safer you climb, the longer you'll climb. |
By 1Eric Rhicard Jan 8, 2009
| No chipping on this route. This route was lead ground hanging on hooks to drill. A lot of the holds were pancake stacks that eventually peeled off. Very exciting to hook on. Went back later and tried to reinforce them. A number are gone but the climb still goes at about the same grade. |
By Andy Bennett From: Tucson, AZ Feb 13, 2009
| Thanks for the info, Eric, sounds like a spicey put-up! I really enjoy this climb, I imagine it will get a bit harder to do straight on once that roasted manzanita at the bottom finally cracks off... |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Mar 28, 2009 rating: 5.11
| great climb! |
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Jan 4, 2010 rating: 5.11b/c
| the manzanita bush at the start is gone. i think the move to the first bolt is like 10a/b. fun route. great flow. no approach. good belay area. great view from the top. positive (albeit sharp) holds. we need more routes like these on mt. lemmon! they're a dime a dozen, no? :) |
By Alex McIntyre From: Tucson, AZ Jan 27, 2013
| Was here today and if my memory serves me correctly, two bolts were added to the start (I'm remembering the now-third as the first when I did it; I could be completely wrong though). Not advocating chopping or any such nonsense, the start moves are harder now with the manzanita gone and you no longer need to worry about breaking an ankle getting to the first bolt. Just figured a note was in order to perhaps encourage those previously scared of the first section to get out there and give this classic route a go! |
By 1Eric Rhicard Jan 30, 2013
| We added the new bolts when the manzanita came down as well doing the new start sequence. Good idea to mention it. |
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