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 ADVANCED
Lower Capitalist Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aries S 
Cheap Labor T,S 
Contra S 
Downsizing S 
Five Finger Discount S 
Flexin' Flake T 
High Tides S 
Lunchmoney S 
Mounty T 
Stroh's S 
Strohs Lite S,TR 
Venture Capital S 
Vitamin-N S 
Unsorted Routes:

Aries 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Darren Mabe
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,697
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Oct 3, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Daniel Alonso climbing Aries.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Aries starts between Mounty and Cheap Labor at the Lower Capitalist area. Start from the ledge, opening with a devious, right leaning rail past the first 2 bolts to a bulge. A few thin moves past the 4th bolt (5.10) gets you exciting climbing just right of the Mounty flake.

Beeline to the shallow, stemming dihedral underneath the anchors.

Protection 

10 protection bolts. Bring a few long draws for #6 and 7. 2 bolt rap anchor.

Caution 

Addendum: if you happen to belay from the threaded hole below Cheap Labor, you may find your 60m rope slipping through your belay device just before you belay your partner to the ledge...40 feet above the river!

UPDATE 

June 2005. This is no longer mixed route. It is fully bolted, 10 bolts.

July 9, 2009. The first two bolts have been moved a few feet to the left, making the grade more consistent with the rest of the route. Goes up the sloping rail.

Aug. 16, 2010. A belay bolt added.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 25, 2013
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 7, 2003
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

As Darren stated the best, finish is Mounty. The direct line would result in some bodily harm unless that piece was glued in by a miracle. The middle section is much easier, but a lot of fun.
By richard magill
Jul 16, 2004

6 feet of hard climbing just after the first bolt (ankle-threatening) followed by a bunch of easy climbing to the anchors.This route didn't do much for me - you'll get more climbing,more tricky moves, and more interesting stone from Cheap Labor or Lunchmoney, both of which are excellent.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 29, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I found myself wondering why. The first twenty feet are interesting, but the real distinctness of the climb seems to peter out at that point. It works as a variation to either of the adjacent climbs, but neither really needs a more difficult start. Once again, a couple of TCUs will nicely get you to the third clip. Overall: okay with an interesting entry.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 28, 2005

This route was "updated".

10 protection bolts and two bolt rap anchor on the ledge at 100'. Stay left getting to bolt 2, don't get too suckered by the face; use the sloping rail. This keeps the route at 5.10+/11-. Bring a long draw for bolt #6 and #7. Finishes up the face to the right of the Mounty dihedral.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 30, 2009

This route confuses me. To start straight up the face following the bolt line is easily .11+, which then peters out into nice 5.10 climbing. If you use the sloping rail to the left, the bolts seem to far out right to be safe for clipping positions. I think that the two bolts moved over to the left a foot or two would keep this route sustained at the grade (.10+/11-), and a lot more fun for the many leaders who look up and think the route looks fun, but are dissuaded by the blank looking start and the trouble they see many a .12 climber having on the opening moves. I would suggest moving the bolts, or adding some, to the left of the existing ones so leaders at this grade can enjoy the climb.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 1, 2009

I agree, Jay. I have never been happy how those two clips ended up, and the opening moves in general. (Actually is one of my least favorite routes I bolted.) When I get a chance, I will drag my drill over there and move the start to the left.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 16, 2010

Belay bolt added that serves Aries, Mounty, and Vitamin-N. Located near the small juniper. Wise to anchor in on these exposed ledges.
By Dan Holz
From: Denver, CO
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I just tried this super-fun route for the first time last month but was a little confused by the contradictory ratings in the new guide book (marked as a 10a on the beta photo/11a on the route description). It felt like a solid 10d with a tricky start - but as stated in the book, it's certainly 'height dependent.'
By Geoff U
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Thought this was a great route. Starting left on the sloping rail is a little tricky, but fun. Did not feel height-dependent or unnatural; just thoughtful. Great route to access Contra above.
By nate post
May 25, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thanks, Darren, for bolting so many great routes here on Capitalist.
This is my new favorite spot with Wall of the Nineties right up the road, and this crag is a little oasis from the drunken gamblers' bus route. Aries was not as good as the others, but I still enjoyed it and thought it was well worth doing at least once. The opening moves along the left-sloping rail were fun. 10b.