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Argon Tower

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West Face T 

Argon Tower Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.63325, -109.60195 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,280
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: david goldstein on Nov 6, 2002
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Argon Tower on the left with the Tower of Babel in...

  • Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A fine looking 250' tower on the west side of the north end of Courthouse Wash. Argon is a couple of hundred yards south of the Three Gossips. Routes face north and west.

    This tower looks better than it climbs. The rock is worse than that of the Gossips -- sandy and soft. A trigger broke on a unit after we placed it; were able to remove the piece by cutting away the surrounding rock with a penknife.

    Getting There 

    Start at the parking lot at the north end of the Courthouse Wash (Broadway) trail. Take the trail for a few minutes until abeam Argon. Follow intermittent climbers' trails, countouring around the north end of the tower, bypassing the bottom part of the tower and ending up at a bench on the west side of the tower. Ten to fifteen minutes from the parking lot.

    Climbing Season

    For the Arches National Park area.

    Weather station 1.4 miles from here

    2 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Argon Tower

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Argon Tower:
    West Face   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Argon Tower

    Featured Route For Argon Tower
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ian McAlexander on the first pitch.

    West Face 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Argon Tower
    If you free this route, you are a true desert free climber.Pitch 1 – Climb a thin crack in a right facing corner to a ledge. There used to be an anchor here but it has been stripped of it’s hangers. Continue up the crack as it widens from #3 to #4.5 Camalot over the next 50 feet and belay at a fixed anchor in the alcove. (5.11 or C1)Pitch Two – Wiggle out the bombay chimney and continue up the crack passing some less than stellar rock along the way. Belay at the fixed anchor on th...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

    Photos of Argon Tower Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Think good thoughts. Your only protection on the l...
    BETA PHOTO: Think good thoughts. Your only protection on the l...
    Rock Climbing Photo: There is an interesting move on the approach.   St...
    There is an interesting move on the approach. St...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Ross and Jimmy Dunn on the summit about 2001
    Paul Ross and Jimmy Dunn on the summit about 2001
    Rock Climbing Photo: Full Team 2001 Mr and Mrs Dunn .. Chamonix Guide ....
    Full Team 2001 Mr and Mrs Dunn .. Chamonix Guide ....

    Comments on Argon Tower Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By KalebN
    Jan 8, 2012
    really soft had a perfectly placed yellow alien almost skid right out of the crack on pitch 3 when I weighted it
    Rock Climbing Photo: on top
    on top
    By Princess Mia
    From: Vail
    Apr 29, 2012
    Super fun, super sandy, super chossy, super scary!!! A true entrada sandstone tower.

    Warning!!!!!! the top pitch is super X-rated. Someone needs to replace the old star driven bolt that is hanging out 3/4 of an inch (and it is the only pro on the pitch). A fall on this uber sandy friction slab would have deadly consequences. The summit could use one more bolt as well. There is one good one right now and three totally pulled out star driven old manky bolts.

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