A fine looking 250' tower on the west side of the north end of Courthouse Wash. Argon is a couple of hundred yards south of the Three Gossips. Routes face north and west.
This tower looks better than it climbs. The rock is worse than that of the Gossips -- sandy and soft. A trigger broke on a unit after we placed it; were able to remove the piece by cutting away the surrounding rock with a penknife.
Start at the parking lot at the north end of the Courthouse Wash (Broadway) trail. Take the trail for a few minutes until abeam Argon. Follow intermittent climbers' trails, countouring around the north end of the tower, bypassing the bottom part of the tower and ending up at a bench on the west side of the tower. Ten to fifteen minutes from the parking lot.
If you free this route, you are a true desert free climber.Pitch 1 – Climb a thin crack in a right facing corner to a ledge. There used to be an anchor here but it has been stripped of it’s hangers. Continue up the crack as it widens from #3 to #4.5 Camalot over the next 50 feet and belay at a fixed anchor in the alcove. (5.11 or C1)Pitch Two – Wiggle out the bombay chimney and continue up the crack passing some less than stellar rock along the way. Belay at the fixed anchor on the s...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Super fun, super sandy, super chossy, super scary!!! A true entrada sandstone tower.
Warning!!!!!! the top pitch is super X-rated. Someone needs to replace the old star driven bolt that is hanging out 3/4 of an inch (and it is the only pro on the pitch). A fall on this uber sandy friction slab would have deadly consequences. The summit could use one more bolt as well. There is one good one right now and three totally pulled out star driven old manky bolts.