Aretnophobia 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Todd Felix |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Todd Felix on May 31, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Aretnophobia is the line in red left of Batso.
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Description Start just left of the arete on jugs, step right, make a few moves on the face (shares a hold or two with Batso Canal, depending on how you climb Batso), and then follow the inviting arete until it ends below a short but imposing headwall. Clip the high bolt on the headwall before committing to this tricky crux section, then pull over the roof on increasingly better holds.
Location This is 20 feet right of Made in the Shade, and just left of Batso Canal, on the obvious arete with camouflaged bolts.
Protection 9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. An alpine draw on the last bolt before the headwall (6th bolt) will decrease rope drag.
Casey working the arete.
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Through the crux.
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By Todd Felix
May 31, 2011
| It will probably feel 5.10-ish when you know the moves, but they may be cryptic, so expect 5.11-ish on-sight. |
By Tuck
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.11 PG13
| One of the better routes at Canal Zone. Very fun, flowing moves with well placed bolts. The crux is tricky (obviously) and rewards good body position. Great route! |
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 2, 2011
| Tuck, well placed bolts yet PG-13??? that doesn't make sense to me, this route sounds a little steeper than most at Canal Zone. I will have to check it out.
And route name is awesome! |
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Jun 24, 2011
rating: 5.11
| The trick is to arrive at the crux not totally spent from the fairly physical arete climbing. That said, the crux is deliciously tricky and difficult. Tuck is right, body position is key. A new fav at The Zone.
The first clip may seem high, but it is easily reached from low jugs. |
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 24, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b
| Nice climb, if inconsistent. Start the early V2 boulder problem to the arete, sticking to the left as much as possible. Balancy moves give way to easier climbing and the roof above. Pull through the second V2 problem on good holds (if you can find them) past two well-placed bolts. Watch for the z-clip through the second crux. There is no way this climb is PG-13. All of the clips are well placed. |
By Jonathan Dykhuis
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| Fun climb with good protection. I noticed a block just over the roof that rocks when touched. It looks like it won't come down any time soon, but I would recommend the belayer wear a helmet to be safe.
Also, I don't see how this is 5.11 when comparing to Batso Canal. |
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