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Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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Aretes Syndrome 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: EFR,JSt,Mike Gura'07
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007

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Description 

A tad forced as you must leave a crack and do some hard moves to reach the arete. Once there it takes some hold on to get to the anchors

Location 

Starts below and left of Blood Book

Protection 

Bolts, anchors


Comments on Aretes Syndrome Add Comment
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By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jan 27, 2008

Is this the route left of blood book with the bolt in the separated block? Maybe that thing is big enough that no human fall force could budge it... What is the size limit on putting a bolt in things like this, or am I wrong, is it not actually separated? Just seemed unsafe to me.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 1, 2008

Hey Joseph, ask me about the rock that was on top of that one some time. If you look at the one you are asking about you will see why it is not going anywhere. It is mostly attached to the angled ledge it is on. The angle of the ledge forces that rock (if it were not attached) back toward the wall. So it is like a 200 lb nut except that it is attached to the ledge itself. If you are worried about it don't clip the bolt the climbing is pretty easy to the next bolt and you would not hit the ground even if you fell while clipping.