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Point Dume
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Arete TR 
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South Face Right S 

Arete 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  TR, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,389
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Fun climb, made more exciting by the wind. Zoey on...

Description 

The true standout at the cliff! Sustained for the grade and truly aesthetic!!


Protection 

Bolted top-anchor. Use long anchor cord.

Directionals are required to safely top rope this route from the anchors atop the cliff.

Lead bolts are push-button compression bolts and insufficient for lead climbing.



Photos of Arete Slideshow Add Photo
The view from the top. My wife and I went in the middle of the week and we had the whole cliff to ourself for a few hours!
The view from the top. My wife and I went in the m...
Top of Arete Route
Top of Arete Route
Sandal scramble on the arete.
Sandal scramble on the arete.
A lead climb?..or a solo? <br /> <br />Given the bolts on this route, I'd consider it a solo.
A lead climb?..or a solo?

Given the bolts on this...
Brad Monsma on the classic arete at Point Dume.
Brad Monsma on the classic arete at Point Dume.
Nick works the arete.
Nick works the arete.
Kirk, going for it anyway
Kirk, going for it anyway
Comments on Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 17, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Fun route but probably more like 5.4 or 5.5. Least manky bolts of all the climbs on the west face.

By Spider Savage
Oct 4, 2009

A fun easy lead route. I lead it once in bare feet. I'll never do that again. Cautions: It's pretty greasy, the angle make's it difficult to top rope without a huge pendulumn. The bolts are pretty rusty. Be a good 5.7 leader to do this route. I agree that it is only 5.4 but it's not a beginner lead.

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 6, 2011

Someone hammered down the first bolt hanger, so you have to thread a sling through it to use it.

By kennoyce
From: Layton, UT
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Fun route but I wouldn't trust any of those bolts to hold even body weight. If you lead it treat it like a free solo.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 4, 2012

The Arete is a cool lead with those rotting bolts.

By tmarndt
Jan 20, 2014

On site solo. Super fun I had to do it two more times while my friend soloed the route to left. Dual solo super fun!Great views! Even better walk off.

By hikingdrew
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 8, 2014

There are three newish bolts up the route with two of the older rusting ones. Three bolts at top for anchor

By Billy Shin
Jul 9, 2014

The Arete is setup in a way it could be lead now.. with pretty newish bolts. Although I don't know how long it'll be up, and i don't know how long they will last...

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 9, 2014

If bolts continue to be drilled, we are all going to lose access to this site.