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Arete Style Dysfunction 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: James Otey, 10/08/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,912
Submitted By: James Otey on Oct 8, 2010

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Justin on the low crux

Description 

Formerly known by the descriptive name "The Black Arete," Arete Style Dysfunction is perhaps the most stunningly aesthetic and difficult line in Little Falls.

Start by romping up some easy terrain, making the first two clips and then swing around to the right of the arete for a few moves. Make a super tenuous swing back left to the face proper and make a cruxy third clip. From here, the buisiness begins: Use an atrociously small left hand crimp and get a high left foot, eventually bumping all the way up to a small crimp (V7ish in itself). Without resting, mount the second crux by using froggy foot technique on impossibly small holds until the large slopey horizontal can be had (V5/6)...phew! From there the climbing is technical mid-eleven crimping that feels way harder after pulling the difficult, thoroughly pumpy moves down low. Clip the chains and enjoy the uniqueness of Little Falls ambiance...

The line had been climbed before on toprope by a variety of people over the years, but wasn't bolted until September 20th 2010. Two holds broke over the last year, upping the difficulty a notch. The first one is is a left hand crimp in the second crux that got smaller. The second one is the massive rest jug midway up- it's now a sloper that makes resting a lot more difficult. Due to some difficult clips, leading the route is noticeably harder than top roping it.

We can all thank Eric Kuenstner for the genius name...

Location 

Smack dab in the middle of the Dihedral's main face.

Protection 

8 Bolts. A double draw is helpful on the 2nd clip, and a long sling is helpful on the 3rd clip.


Photos of Arete Style Dysfunction Slideshow Add Photo
Bearing down on crux 2 of Arete Style Dysfunction, 5.13a <br /> <br />Photo by Becca Weingarten
Bearing down on crux 2 of Arete Style Dysfunction,...
Tenuous 5.11 moves up top
Tenuous 5.11 moves up top
More hard moves post rest <br /> <br />Photo by Becca Weingarten
More hard moves post rest

Photo by Becca Weingart...
Arete Style Dysfunction on the left. Photo by Rafiki
Arete Style Dysfunction on the left. Photo by Rafi...
Justin up high
Justin up high
Justin on Arete Style Dysfunction. Photo by Mike Oconitrillo
Justin on Arete Style Dysfunction. Photo by Mike O...
The pumpy technical crimps looom above as Justin frogs on crux 2
The pumpy technical crimps looom above as Justin f...
"Rest" sloper <br /> <br />Photo by Becca Weingarten
"Rest" sloper

Photo by Becca Weingarten
She bites back...the work of the crux left hand crimp on ASD
She bites back...the work of the crux left hand cr...

Comments on Arete Style Dysfunction Add Comment
Show which comments
By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 14, 2010

Excellent write up, excellent photos, excellent work! I'd feel lucky to get the first ascent of that beauty!
By Jonathon Wasser
Nov 16, 2010

Why did you change the name?
By James Otey
From: NH
Nov 16, 2010

The route climbs significantly differently on the sharp end. Just as first ascentionists of the 'double arete' named the route after it had been freed on lead, I've always been under the impression that leading a route allows one to name it? Like the double arete project, people have always referred to the route by its description (it is a black colored arete) so we named it. But honestly, I don't really care what people call it- it's a beautiful route that deserves to be climbed!