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Arete Juliete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin, Gordon Oakeson, 1988
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: grk10vq on May 11, 2009
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Arete Juliete

Description 

Above and around the corner from Goldfinger is a rounded and striking arete. This blank and lightly featured face is Arete Juliete. Particular protection and intimidating moves make this line a bold undertaking. This climb sees low amounts of traffic yielding flaky and brittle terrain.

Start off-balance with blank feet and blunt hands. A dynamic move gains a long shallow edge. Rock onto this small ledge, place a piece then ride the arete up and left past a bolt. Stay low and on the face avoiding the temptation to rock over too soon. Squeeze the blunt arete and slab up and left across the face. Clip another bolt and keep trust in what follows! A few sketchy moves unveil a good surprise, mantle up and over at the lines apex.


Location 

Above and Around from Goldfinger is a large and rounding arete. Start on it's left side in front of a few broken boulders.


Protection 

Two draws, small/med. stoppers, and gear from .5-#2 Black Diamond. Build an anchor on top using the hand sized pieces. Walk-off or scramble down to Goldfinger's anchors.



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<em>Arete Juliete</em>
BETA PHOTO: Arete Juliete
Eyes on the crux.
Eyes on the crux.
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