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BETA PHOTO: Arete 1
This route might, at first, seem soft; perhaps no harder than mild 5.7. However, once you get towards the top - and start on the slightly overhanging, slanted part of the arete - you'll see why it's actually fairly graded. If you duck off onto the easier face to the left at the top, you're only gypping yourself.
Climb the arete approximately 3 feet right of Easy Rider and 10 feet right of Up A Tree. 5.1 scramble to easier walk-off terrain, from the top.
Spicy lead, especially at the top (very sparse). Recommend TRing this one.
The pillar has 3 (three!) bolts WITHOUT rappel rings on top, and the bolts are well back from the edge. The top of the pillar is a 3' jump across a 40-50' drop, to get to the main rock to the left. You may end up rappelling from the tree, or counterweight rappelling. Thanks for the bolts, guys! -JSH
From: New York, NY
Sep 19, 2007
It's actually 1 1/2 star.
Jun 24, 2012
we basically straddled the arete the whole way and it felt like a pretty easy 5.8 at most.
From: Washingtonville NY
Jun 27, 2013
i think you need to stay to the right in order for it to be 5.9. Cheating left in anyway makes it substantially easier.