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Unsorted Routes:

Arete Butler 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Sloan - 1992
Page Views: 1,034
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007
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Looking down on Mammy.

Description 

Unless you're doing the 11a variation (strictly climbing the arete and face), the name is a little misleading; Arete Butler is more of a stemming chimney climb. An interesting and exposed climb that can be done as a sort of second pitch to Mammy; or, if you have a 70-meter rope, can be done as one long pitch from ground level.

Starting on Mammy or one of its neighboring routes, topout on the ledge and move up to a two-bolt belay anchor on the wall. Climb the orange arete, stemming or chimneying to the wall on the right, with awkward moves to clip the bolts on the face. After reaching the final bolt, move out left and finish on the overhanging face to the anchors.

As noted above, the 5.11a variation is to climb the arete without stemming/chimneying the opposite wall.


Location 

Jimmywood section; starts on the ledge directly above Mammy.


Protection 

5-6 bolts, bolted anchors.



Photos of Arete Butler Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at route.  5.9 through chimney, 5.11c to climb on face.  Climbing the chimney is great, but reaching around to clip draws is a little awkward, but challenging at the same time.
Looking up at route. 5.9 through chimney, 5.11c t...
Route description.
Route description.
Tim relaxing after Mammy.  Arete Butler can be seen in the background.
Tim relaxing after Mammy. Arete Butler can be see...
Arete Butler's anchors.
Arete Butler's anchors.
Hanging out on belay ledge.
Hanging out on belay ledge.
Anchors.
Anchors.
Tim in the chimney.
Tim in the chimney.
Comments on Arete Butler Add Comment
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By Chad Burdyshaw
From: Signal Mountain TN
May 29, 2012

CONDITION REPORT 

There is currently a very active bee's nest about a foot below the anchor bolts. I left a bail biner there on the anchor chain yesterday to facilitate a speedy retreat. May be prudent to wait till mid winter to revisit this route.

By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Sep 2, 2013

Climbed on 9/14, no bees to be seen around anchors. Above Mammy's anchors, climb loose juggy rock for about 30' to belay anchors for Arete Butler.