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Looking down the route after a successful free sol...
funk up the right side of an arete. As interesting as it's neighbor
, albeit more direct and safer, this mixed line offers a touch of everything.
Start on a belay platform and follow cracks up 5 feet to a large, scooping horn. Pull into an obvious crack and follow it through the face to the top of the buttress. You'll come across some thoughtful gear with good stances and a single bolt that protects the crux.
Descend via a quick and easy walk-off back and to the left.
- This route has an anchor that comes and goes? People like to steal shiny things... Be prepared to build your own, clip the pre-slung block, or do both. Easy to top-rope.
Located at the Goldfingers Wall
. Arete Bernadette
sits up, left, and around the corner (south east) from Arete Juliete
. Look for a clean, obvious face with a wavy crack and single bolt.
A light rack with stress on micro nuts and cams. . You won't need more than two or three pieces, all small, but you may have to build or back up the slung block at the top with anypiece from a 1/2 to 2 inches.