A large crag in the lower SSV with some multi-pitch climbing on what is genreally good hard stone. The main routes get only late day sun. On summer mornings it is crisp and cool, but being lower in the canyon, it will hold snow only in the early season. The crag is still fairly obscure and should not be crowded. As such, you will probably be alone with a dozed routes rated 5.8 to 5.12a, about half of which are multi-pitch, and most of which have second-pitch options to top out on this 200' crag. If you find yourself with unwanted company, a few hundred yards of walking to Desdimona will give you privacy and another 6 routes, from 5.3 to 5.11a to climb.
Drive up canyon for 4 minutes to what would be mile 29.2 for the road signs and park on one of the pullouts on either side of the road. Hike up the pant legs, put on the sandals, and walk across a shallow area of stream. Alternatively, pick & hop your way across on rocks if the water is low enough.
Browse More Classics in Area 51
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Area 51:
Government Conspiracy 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
UFO 5.10a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Alien Hot Rod 5.11b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Red Scare 5.11d Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Little Blue Doctors 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Area 51
Alien Hot Rod 5.11b CO : Lyons : ... : Area 51
Alien Hot Rod is a nice crack/seam/flake sort of line that splits the left side of a nice granite face on the west side of Area 51. There is a little bit of small vegetation here and there, but it didn't seem to interfere with the climbing. Climb the crack using a variety of techniques. At the top of the crack, bump to the right (feels kind of contrived here) towards the top, and roll over onto an easy slab up to the anchor.3 star climbing but total bomb for bolting a perfectly protectable cr...[more] Browse More Classics in CO