A large crag in the lower SSV with some multi-pitch climbing on what is genreally good hard stone. The main routes get only late day sun. On summer mornings it is crisp and cool, but being lower in the canyon, it will hold snow only in the early season. The crag is still fairly obscure and should not be crowded. As such, you will probably be alone with a dozed routes rated 5.8 to 5.12a, about half of which are multi-pitch, and most of which have second-pitch options to top out on this 200' crag. If you find yourself with unwanted company, a few hundred yards of walking to Desdimona will give you privacy and another 6 routes, from 5.3 to 5.11a to climb.
Take a rack from RPs to a #4 Camalot, as several routes here have the occasional wide spot. It might come as comfort to some that most of the hard cimbing (cruxes) are face moves and thus bolt-protected.
Drive up canyon for 4 minutes to what would be mile 29.2 for the road signs and park on one of the pullouts on either side of the road. Hike up the pant legs, put on the sandals, and walk across a shallow area of stream. Alternatively, pick & hop your way across on rocks if the water is low enough.
A vague trail is marked down low by some cairns, but fades to mixed game trails on the way up the hill... but the land contour and destination are pretty obvious and would be hard to miss. The approach has some steep sections, but is not bad at all, and should take 15-20 minutes.
Weather station 8.9 miles from here
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Area 51
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Area 51:
UFO 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Alien Hot Rod 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
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Sep 13, 2011
Fair amount of poison ivy just after crossing the river. Definitely wear pants on the approach. Also, just after you pass through the trees (immediately after crossing the creek), you get into some shrubbery and poison ivy. Keep an eye out for snakes here. A monster bull snake struck at my wife when we were leaving in the evening. There was also a good-sized black snake (probably a water snake) at this same location. The combo of the 2 elicited some severe shrieking (not just hers).