Are You An Idiot?
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Paul in the crux of "Are You an Idiot?" Photo by ...
This line is mentioned in Joe's description of "Are You Experienced?"– which is just to the right– but I thought that it was enough of an independent line with a completely different crux that it deserves its own entry here.
It begins with the same start as "Are You Experienced," but you trend more to the left, aiming for a short but obvious crack about eight feet to the left of the arete. Fairly easy climbing to the end of the crack, where you can build a nest of small cams and stoppers before moving up and right into the crux.
The crux is very sequential crimps and slopy sidepulls, and the last few hard moves definitely have the potential for BIG whips; your belayer needs to be with it! A pop to a thank-god bucket ends the crux and puts you firmly into groundfall territory. Two more moves from here and you get a great nest of life-saving gear. From here, you're joined back up with "Are You Experienced?" for 40 feet of safe 5.9-10a arete and slab climbing to the top.
Left of "Are You Experienced?" and right of "Tree Route."
Mostly finger-sized cams and stoppers. Definitely take extra .4 and .5 camalots for the life-nest after the crux.
Also, Joe DeGaetano, who first eyed this line, was able to stop in the middle of the crux moves, reach way over, and clip the lone bolt of "Are You Experienced?" with a three foot runner. This makes the climb much safer, but is very strenuous and can result in some bad rope drag.