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Eagle Plume Tower
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Ardbeg, Vaca & Beyond T 
Eagle Feather (a.k.a. South Face) T 
Fuzzy Crockpot T 

Ardbeg, Vaca & Beyond 

C3-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 350', Grade IV
Original: C3- [details]
FA: Chip Wilson, Crusher Bartlett, Feb 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Lots of sun
Page Views: 677
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Feb 25, 2013

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Chip contemplating cleaning traverse at end of pit...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pretty good climb up the sunny south-southwest arete of the tower. A good midwinter route. Four pitches, not a single free move, not a single aid bolt.
Start on right end of southwest face, just left of painted white graffito.
1. Follow crack system up into right-facing corner. Beware death block 15 feet up; rock improves higher. Belay at two bolts and large ledge (A1+, 90’)
2. Work up cracks in fractured rock, above the bolts. Thirty feet up, reach better rock, a ledge and enter the large, easy-angled dihedral. Up this to the roof. Traverse left, thin, to a small ledge and two bolts. Belay (A2+, 90’).
3. The money pitch, sustained, steep. Climb to two small dihedrals above. The left one features a crack that keeps going up the face all the way to the overhang 70 feet above. It’s mostly splitter, but surrounding rock is kinda soft and sometimes broken. At the roof, jog left to a steep crack that leads to a two-bolt belay (A3-, 90’)
4. Ascend brief rubble to a good Knifeblade/Toucan crack in, all of a sudden, excellent rock; romp to the top and a natural thread belay (A1, 70’).

Location 

The sunny south-southwest arete of Eagle Feather Tower. Look for the obvious white painted graffiti, start just left.
Descent: rap 70 feet from the thread to the top of pitch 3. Rap 90’ down pitch 3. Rap 180’ to the ground. Note: Be sure to leave a rope fixed on pitch 3-important!

Protection 

Cams, 2-3 each from Green Alien to #4 Friend. One each to #5 Camalot.
Pitons: 1 small Tomahawk, 1 small Toucan, 1 large BD Pecker, 6 large Toucans, 4 Bugaboos, 5 LAs, 4 Leeper Z-pins, 2 Baby Angles, 3 Standard Angle, 1 BD Spectre
Selection of nuts from RPs to large.
Hooks.

Descent: rap 70 feet from the thread to the top of pitch 3. Rap 90’ down pitch 3. Rap 180’ to the ground. Note: Be sure to leave a rope fixed on pitch 3-important!


Photos of Ardbeg, Vaca & Beyond Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 4
Looking down pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Stupid graffiti at base. And Chip's dog, Art
Stupid graffiti at base. And Chip's dog, Art
Rock Climbing Photo: Chip jumaring
Chip jumaring
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo. Blue is Ardbeg, Vaca and Beyond, green line ...
Topo. Blue is Ardbeg, Vaca and Beyond, green line ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chip, pitch 3
Chip, pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting pitch 4
Starting pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Chip, pitch 3
Chip, pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: the summit, finally.....
the summit, finally.....

Comments on Ardbeg, Vaca & Beyond Add Comment
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By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 7, 2013

Good one... Cheers Paul

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