|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 105'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Mike Carville and Lon Harter,1995|
|Submitted By:||caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Arctic Breeze||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Oakland CA
Jun 4, 2007
|The first bolt has been replaced. I think there are 7 or 8 lead bolts total. You can still tie off a couple knobs, but it isn't necessary. Take care when rapping/lowering, as it takes all of 60m to get down.|
From: San Francisco
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I enjoyed this route, even though my partner did not.
Crux is somewhere around the first 2 bolts, but I didn't really find it or any other part of this route that challenging.
I could see this route rated at 5.9
Confirmed 7 or 8 bolts, route is a full 100' rappel, okay with a 60m rope despite what Supertopo says.
Supertopo also says recommended for solid 5.10 leaders only, I disagree. This route is very safe and the climbing to the high first bolt is very easy 5th class.
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|Very easy compared to other 5.10- face climbs at the leap, especially due to the lack of height dependent movement. Some of the rock sounded rather hollow around mid-route.|
By Ed Henicle
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|Great route to do while you are waiting in line for Hospital Corner. Good protection, just one or two 5.9+ moves, then easy dike hiking to top. Can rap on 60m rope.|
Jul 27, 2015
Seemed like the crux was only a short section. Most of the rest much easier (but fun enough) climbing.
For more sustained nearby, could try Absolutely Billy.
From: Davis, CA
Aug 12, 2015
|Totally safe route, despite the ST description. Short crux and then more mellow climbing. Not great, but ok and worth doing if you're there.|