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Banana, The T 
April Fools T 
Arctic Breeze S 
Captain Coconuts T 
Craven Image T 
Dead Tree Direct T 
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Hospital Corner T 
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Third Stone From The Sun T 
Vanishing Point T 

Arctic Breeze 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Carville and Lon Harter,1995
Page Views: 1,343
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Start up a jagged detached flake to the face with multicolored green and orange lichen. Then, continue up the highly featured face protected by bolts. There are other knobs that can be slung, but they are not necessary. The dikes range from thin to huge on this fine route.


Arctic Breeze is just around the corner to the left from Hospital Corner. The bolted arete is Nirvana, 11c, about 10' right of Arctic Breeze.


Bolts, 1 knob tie off, optional gear at start of route, optional knob tie off.

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 4, 2007

The first bolt has been replaced. I think there are 7 or 8 lead bolts total. You can still tie off a couple knobs, but it isn't necessary. Take care when rapping/lowering, as it takes all of 60m to get down.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I enjoyed this route, even though my partner did not.

Crux is somewhere around the first 2 bolts, but I didn't really find it or any other part of this route that challenging.

I could see this route rated at 5.9

Confirmed 7 or 8 bolts, route is a full 100' rappel, okay with a 60m rope despite what Supertopo says.

Supertopo also says recommended for solid 5.10 leaders only, I disagree. This route is very safe and the climbing to the high first bolt is very easy 5th class.
By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very easy compared to other 5.10- face climbs at the leap, especially due to the lack of height dependent movement. Some of the rock sounded rather hollow around mid-route.
By Ed Henicle
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route to do while you are waiting in line for Hospital Corner. Good protection, just one or two 5.9+ moves, then easy dike hiking to top. Can rap on 60m rope.
By kenr
Jul 27, 2015

Seemed like the crux was only a short section. Most of the rest much easier (but fun enough) climbing.
For more sustained nearby, could try Absolutely Billy.
By csproul
From: Davis, CA
Aug 12, 2015

Totally safe route, despite the ST description. Short crux and then more mellow climbing. Not great, but ok and worth doing if you're there.

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