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On top of the flake after the crux lieback.
A very nice, long, moderate climb. There is a system of cracks right in the middle of the rock and this one is on the left side of that system. There is one bolt, just above the crack as it angles to the left. It is very old and I don't think it's really needed. At least it was there when I climbed it a few years back. Use the bolt, but don't be fooled into starting on the face. Just keep moving along the crack till you get to the rap slings about 130' from the deck. Easy 5th class climbing up and left to exit, or double rope rappel down if the slings are good.
Pro to 3" and a quickdraw for one bolt (if still there)
By Buff Johnson
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Scary but great lie-back past the bolt. The seam before the .8+ move has perfect finger locks (it is peculiar that all the locks are perfect and right where you need them). small pro & a quickdraw with a screamer is all that is needed (or 24"+ Big Bro with block and tackle - See a recent Alpinist for cartoon placement.) - you can put a couple of directionals as you move past the seam and easy up to the tree. 30M rap to ground (goes over Original Sin) - or up & easy with a walk-off.