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Royal Arches
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Arches Terrace Direct 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Grow, Rick Sylvester and Kelly Minnick, 1970, FFA Dimitri Barton and Dave Neilson, 1983
Page Views: 1,025
Submitted By: Alexey on May 11, 2010

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Above the crux section on the 3rd pitch.

Description 

P1. Two variations for start. We did right variation 5.8 which has interesting face moves. Belay at the tree. 120ft. 5.8
P2. Started with broken ledges to hands/wide hands/fists crack.
belay before bolted traverse. Gear ancor 120 ft. 5.7
P3. Startes with bolted short traverse - transition to left thin crack.
Hard well protected 10a move. Than very thin crux with some fixed gear- more like face climbing 11a - and than good finger crack 10c to the rappel station (one bolt+ fixed gear) 120ft 11a
P4. Start with 5.8 crack to the ledge where you have last pro for 5.9 move. From the ledge you should find positive hold and do several committing moves above your last gear. The feather from the ledge - the easier moves are.. 120 ft, 5.9
P5,6- easy to link - hands, wide hands to the tree with slings. 200ft, 5.8.
Rappel Arches terrace route to the left. Four 2x60 m rope rappels to the ground

Note: if you going to rap the route down - it not clear to me how to do it. You can not reach rap station at the top of p3 from the top of the route. ( need to find intermediate ancor). From top of p3 you probably should rap over abyss to top 1096 ? - I do not know...


Location 

Started in the end of arches area, just before big arete/corner which face east


Protection 

double from Black alien to Green camelot junior.
Single #1,#2, #3,#4



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By Dimitri Barton
Jul 24, 2010

The FFA of this climb was done by Dimitri Barton and Dave Neilson.
1983.

By bud miller
From: SAR site, Camp4
Nov 1, 2013

awesome. Should be more popular. Don't understand how some climbs just get wrote off.

By Rob Dillon
Nov 5, 2013

What Bud said. If CMac reads this it'll be mobbed after the next guidebook comes out.