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|Location:||38.6242, -109.5994 View Map Incorrect?|
|Administrators:||slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002|
|Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>|
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|Comments on Arches National Park||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 22, 2002
|I find this a scary place to climb, due to the sandy rock. I've never seen very many climbers in the Park. When you do see climbers, they are usually on the Three Penguins, Heart of the Desert, or Owl Rock. I find it more relaxing to wander around and marvel at all the arches.|
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Aug 31, 2002
the northeast arete of Argon tower is an excelant climb that is a little stiff.weird and possibly dangerous first entry pitch.the best part is the exposed tips layback on the second(real) pitch after the off-width pitch.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 4, 2002
Has anyone done the aid route about 50 feet right of Heart of the Desert? I and a friend, Baker Bent, did it in the spring of '94, there was no evidence anyone had done it before (we drilled the baby angle anchors). There were some significant sections of very thin pins, a few beaks, and a hook move, and since then I believe park policy has changed so that all aid must be hammerless. It's a great line, really splitter cracks up to about finger size(we aided, but sections would certainly go free) and some spicy thin sections. Unfortunately, we stopped after the third pitch, as I had to be back at work, or something lame like that. At any rate, I think it might go clean with some thin cam hooks and some of the smaller micro cams/tiny wires, but would certainly have some pucker-factor. It awaits a full ascent, to my knowlege. I told Crusher about it a few years ago, but I didn't detect much interest from him at the time. Anyone done it, or care to? I'd love to hear, as i always wondered what's become of it.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 27, 2004
|Inside Arches what are some good bouldering routes? thanks. FYI - I'm not really an anoymous coward, I just signed up and my name won't be in the database until tomorrow :)|
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 28, 2004
|There really aren't any inside the park, and if you explore keep in mind that chalk is a no no in the park. There are some decent boulders along 191 near Arches, and lots of good bouldering at Big Bend along River Road.|
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Aug 4, 2010
Arches National Park is asking for comments on future climbing acccess.
For several years now, the park has banned all hammered aid. It's banned all new fixed anchors, of any and every kind.
Existing (non-piton) climbs are grandfathered in, and open. New climbs are now a real challenge, unless you can walk off or use an existing rappel anchor. Also established aid climbs requiring hammering are banned.
We have an opportunity to tell the Park what we'd like to see. Maybe we don't need to open up hammering again? But maybe we should advocate for giving future climbers the opportunity to find and climb new routes? See Access Fund link below for more details and ideas.
Either way, by August 10, comments please (The Access Fund has made this easy):