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Archery 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 25, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Mike L on lead.

Description 

Climb the face between Pullman Car and Roger's Roof using balancey face moves. Once you reach the overhang follow the crack between the "Horse" flake and the overhang to the top.


Protection 

Top Rope



Photos of Archery Slideshow Add Photo
Dean Kniech working out the moves on Lechery.
Dean Kniech working out the moves on Lechery.
The Horse (5), Pullman Car (6), and Archery (7)
BETA PHOTO: The Horse (5), Pullman Car (6), and Archery (7)
Enjoying a bit of chimney.
Enjoying a bit of chimney.
Comments on Archery Add Comment
Show which comments
By wayniak
May 3, 2003

Technical feet needed. Seems tricky, especially if you think it's The Horse like I did. Short on pro at the base of the route.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

I don't understand why this climb doesn't get more stars? The mantle crux moves halfway through the climb are awesome... and the pro is small, but is certainly there. Yellow C3, #5 stopper and green C3. I also think this deserves a PG13 rating because the gear before the mantle move is at your knees and once you mantle, the gear is above your head and a slip off the large sloping ledge could definitely result in a ground fall.

By Tradoholic
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

This seems to be just a slightly more direct variation to the start of Pullman Car. They end the same after the mantle.

By Tradoholic
Sep 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Totally PG-13. I used a sweet pink tri-cam placement. If any DL leader doesn't have tri-cams on their rack they could use some.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Where did you chuck in the pink tri-cam?

By Tradoholic
Sep 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

In the nice hand slot right of the low crack.