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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AAA 
Archery 
Between the Cheeks 
Debauchery 
Horse, The 
Lechery 
Moby Dick 
Monarch 
Mother Smucker's Jam 
Mung 
Peanut Butter 
Plethora 
Primak's Surprise 
Pullman Car 
Roger's Roof 
Scavenger of Sorrow 
Scuz 
Sugar-free Jam 
Teetering Tower 
Teetering Tower Chimney 
Treachery 
Via Apia 
Woger's Woof Wightside 
Wolf Dog 

Archery 

5.8

   
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Type: TR
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
FA: Unknown
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Dean Kniech working out the moves on Lechery.

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Description 

Climb the face between Pullman Car and Roger's Roof using balancey face moves. Once you reach the overhang follow the crack between the "Horse" flake and the overhang to the top.


Protection 

Top Rope



Photos of Archery Slideshow Add Photo
The Horse (5), Pullman Car (6), and Archery (7)

BETA PHOTO: The Horse (5), Pullman Car (6), and Archery (7)

Mike L on lead.

Mike L on lead.

Enjoying a bit of chimney.

Enjoying a bit of chimney.


Comments on Archery Add Comment
Show which comments
By wayniak
May 3, 2003

Technical feet needed. Seems tricky, especially if you think it's The Horse like I did. Short on pro at the base of the route.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.8 PG13

I don't understand why this climb doesn't get more stars? The mantle crux moves halfway through the climb are awesome... and the pro is small, but is certainly there. Yellow C3, #5 stopper and green C3. I also think this deserves a PG13 rating because the gear before the mantle move is at your knees and once you mantle, the gear is above your head and a slip off the large sloping ledge could definitely result in a ground fall.

By Trad Nanny
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.8 PG13

This seems to be just a slightly more direct variation to the start of Pullman Car. They end the same after the mantle.

By Trad Nanny
Sep 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 PG13

Totally PG-13. I used a sweet pink tri-cam placement. If any DL leader doesn't have tri-cams on their rack they could use some.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 PG13

Where did you chuck in the pink tri-cam?

By Trad Nanny
Sep 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 PG13

In the nice hand slot right of the low crack.