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Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

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3rd Generation Wall  
Aurora Slab 
Catch The Wave 
Diamond, The 
Fairangel Gap and Valley  
Fairangel walls 
Gargoyle, The 
Green Gully 
Jungle Gym, The 
Lost Wall, The 
Monolith, The 
Std walls 
Tarzan's Temple  
Warmup Wall 
White Spot , The 
Zulu Wall 

Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing  


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Location: 61.81663, -149.23829 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008
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Description 

Very unique, "Lord of the Rings" like. Weather is random and can be very different from the weather reports.
Bouldering..Everywhere

Two rockclimbing guides cover the climbing in Hatcher Pass, both are by Kelsey Gray. They are "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" and is available in two volumes.

A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska and features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos, to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at akclimber.com

Getting There 

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.6 miles from here

66 Total Routes

['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',9],['5.8',10],['5.9',12],['5.10',21],['5.11',11],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing:
Chickenhead   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   The Monolith
The Slot   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Monolith
Ruby Shoes   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Diamond
Physical Attraction   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Zulu Wall
New School   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 70'   The Jungle Gym
Zigzag   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Monolith
As good as it gets   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 20'   The Jungle Gym
Randys roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   The Jungle Gym
Orangutan Overhang   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   The Monolith
The RP boys   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   The Jungle Gym
Freedom Roof    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   The Monolith
Festoon   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Diamond
Zulu Warrior   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Zulu Wall
Voodoo Child   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Zulu Wall
Toto   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   The Diamond
African Dreams    5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Bill's Wall
Blue Berry Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 50'   Green Gully
Epidemic    5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Bill's Wall
The Brown Spot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 120'   Green Gully
3rd Generation   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   3rd Generation Wall
Browse More Classics in Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing

Featured Route For Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing
Sending the spitter.

My Pie 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : Green Gully
Climb the splitter on the right side of the white triangle. This fingers to hands crack has good protection and a great position. This is a great climb and is now one of my favorites. The left side of the Pie has an excellent finger crack and goes free at 5.10B....[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Looking back down Archangel Valley early in the season
Looking back down Archangel Valley early in the se...
Roof at Lane Prospect Works over the roof at the splitter hand crack.
Roof at Lane Prospect Works over the roof at the s...

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