Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing
Very unique, "Lord of the Rings" like. Weather is random and can be very different from the weather reports.
Two rockclimbing guides cover the climbing in Hatcher Pass, both are by Kelsey Gray. They are "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" and is available in two volumes.
A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska and features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos, to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at akclimber.com
From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.
Weather station 15.6 miles from here
66 Total Routes
['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing:
Featured Route For Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing
Orangutan Overhang 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a AK
: Anchorage & South Central A...
: ... : The Monolith
5.9 climb the corner 15' to the cruxy roof, pull the small roof up to a fixed nut. Continue up the crack then move on slabish chicken heads up to ledge.Belay out of the crack at top of bushy ledge. Continue up the corner past a loose-looking chockstone but feels stable, slab out right up to another small roof, pull the roof to a very awkward/dirty chimney or out right in a crack, grass at top and finish on two bolts and one piton, rap the route with two double ropes....[more] Browse More Classics in AK
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Looking back down Archangel Valley early in the se...
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