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BETA PHOTO: Arch
A fun route; a classic, if combined with P2 of Wrist.
P1 - Climb the right-facing flakes on the lower arch and continue up an easy but runout face to a dirt ledge about 30' up. From here, aim towards the easiest exit out and over the arch on the right (optional belay after exiting the arch). Follow easier climbing right of the tree, then move left below the next tree and straight up to the GT Ledge. 160', 5.5.
P2 - Look right and climb the face to a notch in the shallow part of the roof (the right-hand side of the roof. The left is Wrist). Head straight to the top from there and finish in the right-facing corner and crack.
Descent: Walk right and down to a bolted rappel route. Three raps with a 50m rope will get you down.
The Arch access trail is about a 4-min. walk from the Uberfall, where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. At the cliff, walk left past Strictly From Nowhere and Ribs until you're under the huge arch about 70' up the wall.
Standard rack. Many trees as anchors.
Opening moves on Arch 5.5, da Gunks.
Leading the opening to Arch. Of course we left th...
Second pitch of Arch to Wrist, 5.6 - The Gunks
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Arch - after clearing the flake, trend right...
Amit pulling through the P2 crux
Pawel in the awkward bit of the traverse, all 6'7"...
From: Wayne, PA
May 26, 2009
To me, this looks improbable from the ground. But, once you are up there the climbing is really very easy. Keep you eyes out for pro, is kind of sparse, but, reasonable. It's not plug and play, but it's certainly not an R rated climb either. The exit moves out of the arch are fun and airy.
Jul 20, 2009
This isn't a great route for either new leaders or new followers - it traverses a lot in the first pitch, with large swings possible on either end of the rope. Also, this section of cliff has lots of loose rock on it - it's a good place to wear helmets, even on the ground.
Nov 17, 2009
There are a couple of spots on P1 where you simply can't fall - the holds and pro a both bad in some spots. Granted, the climbing is easy, but the rock is suspect. In addition, the first pitch traverses so much that its difficult to protect well and prevent rope drag. P2 is mediocre climbing at best. The route is contrived - loose holds, dirty climbing, excessive traversing and sketchy pro.
May 9, 2010
As gblauer says holds are there and protection is there - small cams and pink tricams sew it up pretty nicely. Rope drag can be avoided with extended slings. I would not give this climb 3 stars though - traverse was ok, I almost thought I missed the route and should have gone through the arch.
Could not find P2 - ended up on P2 of Wrist, which sweetened up the whole climb!
|By Neil Steinert|
From: New Egypt, NJ
May 23, 2011
Not sure why the negative comments, I thought the climb was great. I lead it yesterday and it was a bit wet, but still very enjoyable. Good pro if you look for it. No drag with shoulder length runners and maybe a long one at the arete.
The very beginning of P1 is run out before your first piece of pro, but was good climbing. On P2 at the top I think I went off route and went straight up through a cracked roof with an old pin/ring. Fun, but I think that I didn't put enough slings there and had serious drag.
All in all, loved the climb and would do it again without hesitation and highly recommend it.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 13, 2011
I actually linked most of P1 into the Billy Shears roof, which is def a 5.9 set of moves. With proper rope management, this was a fun alternate to going around the corner of the original Arch route. It was a little dirty in places, but that's trad climbing in the Gunks sometimes. P2 was fun and a bit airy. It traversed a bit, but the pro options are all there.
|By Valerie Bachinsky|
From: West Sand Lake, NY
Oct 18, 2011
Thought I led the 2nd pitch but not sure if I was actually on it. Felt like 5.5 but was very dirty and didn't look like it gets climbed much. I did break through a small roof with a piton, there was 2 death blocks directly beneath which added challenge to the move due to making certain I didn't disturb them. Be careful there...I initially pulled on one and it moved...very scary. Finished in a left-facing corner with a piton.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 22, 2012
A fun outing and a classic at the grade. If you set it up right and don't mind a wee bit of run-out you can protect this well for your follower and avoid rope drag. I thought P1 was on the easy-ish end of gunks 5.5 while P2 crux is definitely hard for the grade.