Arch Tower.. "Knot in My Backyard" 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Steve Bartlett Paul Ross (alt leads) Layne Potter. O3/01/06 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | USBRIT on Apr 24, 2006 |
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Crusher on First Pitch of Arch Tower
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Description The Arch Tower has a detached arch on its west side, and was named in the hiking guide book by Allen.
"Knot in My Backyard" III 5.9. The route takes the obvious line of deep grooves and cracks on the east end of the tower. Start around the right corner (left end of the north face) up a right-facing flake/chimney.
P1) One move of aid on a 3.5 camalot leads to an awkward entry into the chimney. Continue up a nice hand crack over a bulge, then angle left and up easier terrain to a two bolt belay.130' C0 5.9
P2) Up the groove on the right to easier climbing and a two bolt belay. 80' 5.8.
P3). Scramble 4th class to the summit 40'
Rap the route, two ropes.
Location Northern Reef, Smith Cabin Area. From the parking area, walk west and in 5 minutes enter an open canyon with a stream. Continue and in 10 minutes the canyon narrows with rock walls and trees. Keep left and after 15 minutes pass large potholes. At 24 minutes go up the canyon on the right. At 30 minutes reach 4 way canyons, go left up slabs, and at about 45 minutes Arch Tower comes into view. Do not take the canyon on the right, but instead go around the rocky mesa to the left, and then diagonal up to the base of the tower. Total time from the parking area is about one hour and ten minutes.
Protection One set of cams from 0.75" to 2.5" Four 3.0", One 3.5" and One #5 Camalot
Paul topping out on pitch 2
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Crusher and Layne on the Summit
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On The Summit First Ascent Arch Tower
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Layne Potter and Paul Ross on summit of Arch Tower
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