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Arch Tower: Dry Heaves T 
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Arch Tower: Dry Heaves 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2- PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 375', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2- [details]
FA: Bill Duncan, Jon Burnham
New Route: Yes
Season: spring or fall
Page Views: 2,457
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Aug 14, 2006

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Arch Tower

Description 

This tower is of high quality rock in a pristine remote setting. It does have quite a bit of wide crack climbing, but it is an absolutely fantastic adventure. We would recommend not climbing it in early June like we did. It was 107 degrees during the day. (Damn work schedules!)

The route starts in the shade of the northeast face, on the left side of the tower. This tower, like the name suggests, is actually a huge vertical arch. You could drive a semi through the middle of this tower.

1) Climb the nice hand and fist crack to a nice ledge and two drilled pins.

2) Climb the vertical offwidth crack to the top of the first buttress. There are 2 drilled pins at the top of the crack for the rap.

Wiggle through the Birth Canal to get into the big notch at the center of the tower.

3) Climb up to the corner on the right on beak holes to where there is a small stance. There is a drilled pin or a bolt once in awhile for safety. Continue up and to the right on beak holes to the hanging belay, or continue on into the chimney. There is a drilled pin once in awhile for safety. The first ascent party belayed at the hanging belay, but it is now possible to set up a belay in the massive chimney.

4) Go through the tower to the south face, and climb the vertical wide crack to the top of the buttress. Groovy 5.10 A1.

The summit is mere feet away. One more move should do the trick . . .

Descent. This part is kind of tricky. The rock is very soft on the summit, negating the ability to rap directly back into the notch. Rap off the north face from the fixed anchors. As soon as you safely can, start moving to climbers left. The goal here is to reach all the way back to the notch at the center of the tower. You may prefer to stop at the belay station before the huge chimney, but this may result in an awkward angle to rap back to the ledge. Crawl back through the Birth Canal, and rap to the base from the anchors on top of the second pitch.

Location 

From the river, hike about 3 miles up the canyon, taking the left fork when you come to a junction. You can't miss it.

Protection 

Standard desert rack plus . . . as the name suggests, bring lots of wide gear. I mean lots. We took 4 #5 Camalots, 4 #4 Camalots, 2 #4.5s, 3 #3 Camalots, and a selection of Big Bros. Bird beaks or a similar piece are also required (4 or 5).


Photos of Arch Tower: Dry Heaves Slideshow Add Photo
It was 107 degrees during the day.  Lots of offwidth.  Hmmm, I wonder why it's called Dry Heaves.  Check out the wide gear.
It was 107 degrees during the day. Lots of offwid...
From a distance, climber traversing . . .
From a distance, climber traversing . . .
Jon up on the 3rd pitch.  You can see pitches one and two on the left.  Pitch one is the dihedral in the shade on the light colored rock on the left.  Pitch two follows the crack on the sunlight face. <br /> <br />(photo by Trisha Solberg)
Jon up on the 3rd pitch. You can see pitches one ...
View looking up the NW side of the tower.
View looking up the NW side of the tower.
North face with interim belays circled.  Wider view.
BETA PHOTO: North face with interim belays circled. Wider vie...
Jon on the 3rd pitch traverse, drilling beak holes.  Big Air exposure there . . . <br />(photo by Trisha Solberg)
Jon on the 3rd pitch traverse, drilling beak holes...
Close up of the upper portion of the north face.  The 2 interim belay stations are circled (slings visible).  The red arrow indicates the point of entry into the great chimney.  Yellow arrow indicates the rap station.
BETA PHOTO: Close up of the upper portion of the north face. ...
Approaching . . .
Approaching . . .
View of the south face and the last pitch of the route.  The arrow indicates the exit from the great chimney.
BETA PHOTO: View of the south face and the last pitch of the r...

Comments on Arch Tower: Dry Heaves Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 4, 2006

Nice work guys, that is an amazing looking tower.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jan 25, 2009

Nice! I took a booze cruise down that stretch a few years back and saw that tower, it's amazing. I wondered if anyone had climbed it before, nice work!