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Arch Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation 
Application 
Bin, The 
Blotto AKA Axis 
Dirty Little Secret 
English Breakfast Crack 
Entrance Exam 
Goldilocks 
Gripper 
Leanie Meanie 
Midterm 
New Dimensions 
Short Circuit 
Short Circuit Chimney 
Sidetrack 
Supplication 
Unsorted Routes:

Arch Rock 


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Location: 37.6893, -119.7334 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,822
Administrators: M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 26, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Arch Rock from the parking lot below just inside t...
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  • Description 

    This is the 1,000', multi terraced cliff seen above the road at the Highway 140 entrance station.
    "Midterm", "English Breakfast Crack", "Gripper" and "New Dimensions" are a few of the classics found here.


    Getting There 

    Park at the entrance parking lot or across the Hay. at a dirt road.
    Head up to the talus then up to the base of the cliff.


    16 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arch Rock:
    Entrance Exam   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
    Application   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Gripper   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Midterm   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Supplication   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    English Breakfast Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Blotto AKA Axis   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
    New Dimensions   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
    Leanie Meanie   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
    Anticipation   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
    Short Circuit   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
    Goldilocks   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Browse More Classics in Arch Rock

    Featured Route For Arch Rock
    Pitch 2, chimney

    New Dimensions 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Arch Rock
    This is where it all began for the magical Valley grade of 5.11...Only makes sense why John Bachar made the first solo statement on this stellar line. I usually do the route in 3 pitches (linking the traditional 2nd and 3rd pitches together).P1. Behind the tree and up the crack! Blue Camalot size jamming over a cornery bulge is that crux. Belay on the obvious ledge below a big block (5.10-).P2. Surmount the block and jam up a 5.7 corner and up toward the dark flared chimney (wet in early season)...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

    News and Events For Arch Rock
    Comments on Arch Rock Add Comment
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    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Feb 18, 2010

    Day at Arch as climbing Rostrum:
    Climb New Dimensions ( in 3pitches) , Anticipation, Leanny Meany, Blotto, Midterm and Gripper(p1 only) in one day and it would be same as climbing Rostrum in term of length and difficulties. Eight pitches - tree -5.11 and five -5.10.
    Add English Breakfast and Supplication and it would be like Astroman?

    By Bryan G
    From: San Jose
    Sep 27, 2011

    Many of those routes are longer and harder for the grade than their respective pitches on the Rostrum. For instance, Anticipation and Leanie Meanie both feel harder to me than anything on the Rostrum. I think any party capable of that circuit would probably hike the Rostrum in under 2 hours.

    As far as Astroman, I don't know because I haven't climbed it. But I'm guessing that there's nothing at Arch Rock which could adequately prepare someone for the Harding Slot.