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Arch Rock
Funline 12 m 40 ft

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation 
Application 
Blotto AKA Axis 
Dirty Little Secret 
English Breakfast Crack 
Entrance Exam 
Goldilocks 
Gripper 
Leanie Meanie 
Midterm 
New Dimensions 
Short Circuit 
Short Circuit Chimney 
Supplication 
Unsorted Routes:


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Arch Rock 


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Administrators: M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 26, 2006

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    • BETA PHOTO: Arch Rock from the parking lot below just inside t...

    Description 

    This is the 1,000', multi terraced cliff seen above the road at the Highway 140 entrance station.
    "Midterm", "English Breakfast Crack", "Gripper" and "New Dimensions" are a few of the classics found here.


    Getting There 

    Park at the entrance parking lot or across the Hay. at a dirt road.
    Head up to the talus then up to the base of the cliff.


    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arch Rock:
    Entrance Exam   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet   
    Gripper   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
    Midterm   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
    Supplication   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
    English Breakfast Crack   5.10c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
    Blotto AKA Axis   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet   
    New Dimensions   5.11a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
    Anticipation   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
    Leanie Meanie   5.11b     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet   
    Short Circuit   5.11d     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
    Goldilocks   5.12a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
    Browse More Classics in Arch Rock

    Featured Route For Arch Rock
    Pitch 2, chimney

    New Dimensions 5.11a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Arch Rock
    This is where it all began for the magical Valley grade of 5.11...Only makes sense why John Bachar made the first solo statement on this stellar line. I usually do the route in 3 pitches (linking the traditional 2nd and 3rd pitches together).P1. Behind the tree and up the crack! Blue Camalot size jamming over a cornery bulge is that crux. Belay on the obvious ledge below a big block (5.10-).P2. Surmount the block and jam up a 5.7 corner and up toward the dark flared chimney (wet in early season)...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


    Comments on Arch Rock Add Comment
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    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Feb 18, 2010

    Day at Arch as climbing Rostrum:
    Climb New Dimensions ( in 3pitches) , Anticipation, Leanny Meany, Blotto, Midterm and Gripper(p1 only) in one day and it would be same as climbing Rostrum in term of length and difficulties. Eight pitches - tree -5.11 and five -5.10.
    Add English Breakfast and Supplication and it would be like Astroman?

    By Bryan G
    From: Yosemite
    Sep 27, 2011

    Many of those routes are longer and harder for the grade than their respective pitches on the Rostrum. For instance, Anticipation and Leanie Meanie both feel harder to me than anything on the Rostrum. I think any party capable of that circuit would probably hike the Rostrum in under 2 hours.

    As far as Astroman, I don't know because I haven't climbed it. But I'm guessing that there's nothing at Arch Rock which could adequately prepare someone for the Harding Slot.