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Arch Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation 
Application 
Bin, The 
Blotto AKA Axis 
Dirty Little Secret 
English Breakfast Crack 
Entrance Exam 
Goldilocks 
Gripper 
Leanie Meanie 
Midterm 
New Dimensions 
Short Circuit 
Short Circuit Chimney 
Sidetrack 
Supplication 
Unsorted Routes:

Arch Rock 


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Lat, Long: 37.6893, -119.7334 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 26, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Arch Rock from the parking lot below just inside t...
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  • Description 

    This is the 1,000', multi terraced cliff seen above the road at the Highway 140 entrance station.
    "Midterm", "English Breakfast Crack", "Gripper" and "New Dimensions" are a few of the classics found here.


    Getting There 

    Park at the entrance parking lot or across the Hay. at a dirt road.
    Head up to the talus then up to the base of the cliff.


    16 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arch Rock:
    Entrance Exam   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
    Application   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
    Gripper   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
    Midterm   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Supplication   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    English Breakfast Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Blotto AKA Axis   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
    New Dimensions   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
    Leanie Meanie   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
    Anticipation   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
    Short Circuit   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
    Goldilocks   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Browse More Classics in Arch Rock

    Featured Route For Arch Rock
    The beautiful Midterm at Arch Rock

    Midterm 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Arch Rock
    The first time I was on this climb was mid June in 100F heat. Perhaps not the best conditions, because I only got hotter as I got higher.The climb starts with the technical crux, a polished finger crack. Thankfully this is short and leads to a very good ledge and rest. If you ever want to hear sticky rubber squeak, this is your climb!What follows is a great hand jamming sequence, up to the midway point of the climb. The crack slowly widens to wide hands, then to off width and finally to a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

    News and Events For Arch Rock
    Comments on Arch Rock Add Comment
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    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Feb 18, 2010

    Day at Arch as climbing Rostrum:
    Climb New Dimensions ( in 3pitches) , Anticipation, Leanny Meany, Blotto, Midterm and Gripper(p1 only) in one day and it would be same as climbing Rostrum in term of length and difficulties. Eight pitches - tree -5.11 and five -5.10.
    Add English Breakfast and Supplication and it would be like Astroman?

    By Bryan G
    From: San Jose
    Sep 27, 2011

    Many of those routes are longer and harder for the grade than their respective pitches on the Rostrum. For instance, Anticipation and Leanie Meanie both feel harder to me than anything on the Rostrum. I think any party capable of that circuit would probably hike the Rostrum in under 2 hours.

    As far as Astroman, I don't know because I haven't climbed it. But I'm guessing that there's nothing at Arch Rock which could adequately prepare someone for the Harding Slot.