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Arch Rock
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Arch Rock Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 6,331
Submitted By: Michael J Yarros on Sep 3, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Looking down from the top of pitch two. At the top...

Description 

The route starts on a ledge on the right side of the Tilted Tower. It's a crack that angles right, then up. You can belay at the first large ledge. Then follow the crack(s) system up to the large off-width crack at the top. Once your at the next large ledge its up and over the OW crack to the summit. You can belay from the very top of Arch Rock.

You might want to do 3 pitches if communications are a problem. It can be very hard to hear with the river noise, wind etc.


Protection 

Route takes from 0.5 up to 4.0 WC sizes. Cracks usually take from 1.5 to 2.0. There are plenty of placement possiblities. There are NO bolts, and only one fixed piece of gear (stopper?) on the second pitch.



Photos of Arch Rock Route Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
The regular start follows the easy crack to the right of the red backpack.  It angles up and left about 15 feet to a small ledge, then you walk right along the ledge until you get to the crack for pitch one.  (See the other photo of the direct 5.9+ start).
BETA PHOTO: The regular start follows the easy crack to the ri...
Getting ready to start the 2nd pitch.
Getting ready to start the 2nd pitch.
Victor get ready to start the first pitch.
Victor get ready to start the first pitch.
Arch Rock route follows the crack shown with the blue line.  The first belay station is labeled with a "B" and is wide and comfortable.  For the top belay after the second pitch, recommend belaying on the ledge just above the chimney so you can communicate with your second.
BETA PHOTO: Arch Rock route follows the crack shown with the b...
The first pitch.  After you reach the ledge with the small bush shown in the foreground (by either the direct start or the regular start) the rest of the first pitch follows the crack above the small bush.  The last 10 feet below the belay ledge the crack ends and you have a short exposed face climb -- which is probably the crux of the pitch.  The belay ledge above is wide and has ample ways to set up a trad anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch. After you reach the ledge with t...
The vertical crack in the middle (behind and just left of the dog) is the "direct start" to the Arch Rock route.  It is a tough 5.9+ start to reach the nice ledge with the small bush, but it protects okay.  The much easier "regular" start is about 12 feet to the left of this crack (see other picture).  The regular start angles up and left (5.5?) until it reaches this lower ledge, then you traverse (walk) back right along the ledge until you get to the small bush in this picture.  The rest of pitch one goes up the crack behind the small bush.
BETA PHOTO: The vertical crack in the middle (behind and just ...
Pitch two.   <br /> <br />B1 is the belay ledge above pitch one.  You can see the 10 feet of face climbing at the top of the P1 crack to get to the belay ledge. <br /> <br />B2 is the belay ledge near the summit for the second pitch.  You can see the dark chimney near the top.  Belay on the ledge just at the top of the chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch two.

B1 is the belay ledge above pitch on...
Comments on Arch Rock Route Add Comment
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By Buff Johnson
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Good moderate natural line on solid rock.

You can really push yourself right off the deck and try a hard (but protectable with large nuts) flaring variant crack that is more .8+/.9. Overall, a nice 5.8 climb; we did in 2 pitches and a walk-off, the first pitch was really fun. The finish OW was not that difficult.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 19, 2007

The 5.8 leader shouldn't be put off by the 5.8+/5.9 start that Mark mentions. I found it surprisingly easy to protect before making the hard moves. Perhaps warm up on another route first.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jun 25, 2007

I believe he's referring the "variant" when he says .8+/9, not the original line.

By Tom Johnson
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Sep 16, 2008

There is another variation on the first pitch that follows a left facing dihedral about 30 ft right of the usual hand crack. It's super fun, although quite short. Protects well and probably goes at easy 5.7. Also, I didn't see the fixed nut referred to in the description. Be ready for a bit of squeeze chimney near the top of the second pitch, or else duck out left onto slab. Great route.

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Climbed today with my wife. A great moderate route that protects well. The "direct" start (see photo) is very tough -- 5.9+ or harder. The regular start (fifteen feet left) is easy (5.6?). Both take you to a small ledge about fifteen feet off the ground. From there the route follows an obvious crack which stops just below the first belay ledge. Plenty of rests along the way. You will need to do about 8 feet of face climbing (5.7+) to get up on top of the first belay ledge which is wide and comfortable.

The second pitch follows a crack up until it reaches a 15 foot chimney at the top of Arch Rock. The chimney can't be protected, but it goes back pretty deep and would be hard to fall out of. Near the top of the chimney, you will move left for about six feet of easy face climbing (5.6) that also cannot be protected, but there's lots of options for feet and hands. That tops out on a wide ledge which I recommend for the second belay station -- lots of options for a trad anchor. The actual summit is back on the ledge and up about six feet through a "hole" in the rock, but if you belayed from there the communication with your second would be very difficult.

This is a fun route on great rock that actually offers lots of opportunity for protection where I think it mattered the most. I used BD cams in the 0.75 to 4 range, with doubles recommended from 1 to 3.

By Stephen Wilson
Sep 5, 2009

Great climb! I would agree that the direct start is a 5.9-5.9+, and the rest is 5.8. It is easily protectable for most of it but with run-outs at the top. I used C4 cams from 0.4-2, but in places to 4, and can be done with a rack of nuts and hexes with only a few mid-sized cams.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

As usual I'm struggling to understand US grades. Start of this climb was worth 5.9+ but after that the climb is at most 5.7, though enjoyable - "a good mountaineering route". UK grade would be Hard Severe with an optional 5b start.

By D.J. Radcliff
From: Castle Rock, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Climbed this past weekend, fun route and easily protected. One thing I did differently was to set the second belay just under the O/W section near the top. The ledge is just too cool to not sit on for a bit, and you can watch your second through the whole pitch, with good communication. Makes for an extremely short third pitch with no real protection, but good luck falling out of that O/W.