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Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rock Direct T,S 
Arch Rock Route T 
Blackjack T 
Cake Walk T 
Death by Drowning T,S 
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 
Haircase T 
Hollow Flake T 
In Two Deep T 
Kansas Honey T,S,TR 
Middle Dihedral T 
Middle Meanie Crack T 
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 
Obscura T 
Obscura Direct T 
Persistence S 
Pride of Sweden S 
Right Meanie Crack T 
Smiley Face S 
Sprout Route T 
Staircase, The T 
Village Idiot S 
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 
Zamboni Man S 
Zendance S 
Zorro's Cave T 

Arch Rock Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Brian Becker, 1975
Page Views: 1,366
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jun 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Looking down from the top of Arch Rock Direct to B...

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From the top of the Tilted Tower, climb about 6 feet down the back side to the wall. Clip a bolt about 10 feet from where the tower and the wall meet, and continue up the fun face over sculptured granite to the second bolt. Pass a set of anchors on the right and aim for the low point along the overlap (runout). The moves through the overlap protect well with a couple of medium camalots. At the low point in the overlap, step up into a small bowl and pull up through. Continue toward the summit through a series of curious water basins. The route ends near the top of the Regular Route. Walk off to the right.


2 bolts, medium cams for the overlap.

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Rock Climbing Photo: The two bolts on Arch Rock Direct -- picture taken...
BETA PHOTO: The two bolts on Arch Rock Direct -- picture taken...

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By Larry Shaw
May 29, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I remember 2 bolts but the rest of the climb was super easy on bathtubs...bust the roof at the top at around .6 or .7. fun stuff.

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