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 ADVANCED
Burlap Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival T 
Arrow Place T 
Children of the Sun 10b T 
Poultroonicus aka Moving Over Stone T 
Prism Corner, The T 
Teabob T 
Wish Bone T 
Unsorted Routes:

Arch Rival 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Matt Kuehl on Sep 26, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Snapshot looking up at Arch Rival

Description 

Arch Rival is a fairly large left facing corner/arch on the South side of the Burlap Buttress.

Start in the clean cut corner and layback or jam your way up the crack. Negotiate the entrance into a wide pod and find a balance between awkward and burly climbing as the crack becomes steeper. Exit the wide pod and begin traversing left with the arch. Tricky gear in unique rock with disappearing feet make this an exciting hand traverse. Follow the arch till it ends and aim for a single bolt.

Pitch Extension - Not Recommended - Continue after the bolt climbing back right and then straight up a corner and around the right arete. This upper portion has flakey rotten rock and the gear looks poor.

Location 

Across of the main wash just opposite the first few routes on the Black Velvet Wall.

Protection 

Double rack to #2, Tri-cams might be useful


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By Matt Kuehl
From: the desert
Sep 26, 2013

When I climbed this (a few months ago) there were two ancient fixed nuts and a bolt for the intermediate anchor. When I lowered to the ground the nuts blew the rock out and only the bolt remained in the stone. This bad rock is why I wouldn't recommend going any further than the bolt... Sure glad that bolt was there though!
By Cultivating Mass
Sep 27, 2013

Jeez, man, glad you're still with us!

PS this story is a great example of how bolts are a really bad idea in soft sandstone. They should make them illegal or something. Hope some bolt fairy adds a second up there. Based on the description, I'm avoiding this one.
By Matt Kuehl
From: the desert
Sep 28, 2013

I posted this up as a sort of "heads up" to those intrigued by the arch like I was. It's a cool pitch that just needs a little anchor update. Good climbing, just not an ideal finish in its current state.