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Arch Nemesis 

Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Nov 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Sticking the finish jug

Description 

This route is powerful.

Sit start on jugs and work your way up and left up the arete. This route is interesting and has some very slippery holds (which is a real rarity for Pway). Good foot work and body positioning will get you to the top out jugs.

Location 

Start sitting in the same place of DJ Dan V3 and work up and left up the slopey arete using the big undercling along the way.

Protection 

Pads and spotter.


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By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 7, 2013

This problem is very charismatic, burly, and beta intensive. I'd say worth more than a couple stars.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 25, 2013

Myself and a couple friends climbed this route today and we having a discussion on the grade. Does anyone else feel this might be tougher than v4+?
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Sep 23, 2013
rating: V4 6B

Were you climbing it in the heat? It felt pretty good with crisp holds.
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 27, 2013

When we did it we were climbing in pretty significant humidity (65%ish) and it felt way hard for a V4, even a V4+. I could see easy V5 going, but I'd be hesitant to give it any kind of upgrade until another try is given in some drier conditions, because none of the individual moves felt like they deserved V5 status, particularly when we worked the feet out.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 27, 2013

I wouldn't say it was hot but it certainly wasn't the best conditions. We thought it might fall into the mid v5 range, but who know we might have missed something too...
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 8, 2013
rating: V4 6B

I finally got on this climb today. Took me a couple tries to work out beta and I definitely had to work a little harder than I expected for the send. But, v4 is probably accurate.

For instance, as a comparison at Round Pond, this problem is definitely easier than Gadgetry, Brett's Arete and Labrador Dreams.

I didn't use the undercling at all.