Arch Nemesis  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12- [details] FA:  Dan Hare, Noel Childs, and John Durr Season:  Follow Bird Closures Submitted By:  Orphaned on Feb 16, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Nice route.

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route has it all. It starts up a flared ear shape OW that feels hauntingly similar to "Horn's Mother" then blasts out diagonal/arching hands that gradually pinch to tips, you surmount a little step and tiptoe up a thin seam. Fantastic.

Location 

This is left of the landmark routes at Sunshine. It's an arching crack with an ear at the start. There is a one bolt anchor and gear options to back up a TR. A rap off a slung tree gets you back to the base.

Protection 

#4 Camalot down to green or yellow Alien. A couple RPs for the seam up top, I used a BD 4 and 2 RP and they were pretty good.

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Lisa following Arch Nemesis.