|1,544 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12- [details]|
|FA: ||Dan Hare, Noel Childs, and John Durr|
|Season: ||Follow Bird Closures|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Feb 16, 2008|
This route has it all. It starts up a flared ear shape OW that feels hauntingly similar to "Horn's Mother" then blasts out diagonal/arching hands that gradually pinch to tips, you surmount a little step and tiptoe up a thin seam. Fantastic.
This is left of the landmark routes at Sunshine. It's an arching crack with an ear at the start. There is a one bolt anchor and gear options to back up a TR. A rap off a slung tree gets you back to the base.
#4 Camalot down to green or yellow Alien. A couple RPs for the seam up top, I used a BD 4 and 2 RP and they were pretty good.
Lisa following Arch Nemesis.
|By Olaf Mitchell|
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Feb 17, 2008
Bob, you're right, Noel Childs was also involved with this one.
|By Scott Bennett|
From: Colorado, etc
Jan 11, 2010
Very enjoyable, don't be scared off by the OW looking flare at the bottom, it's pretty chill to just layback around it. I did think the seam up top was pretty heady, though, very insecure moves above small gear.
From: Petaluma California
Aug 6, 2010
Did this a few times in '95-'99. I also remember the flare OW being easy-hand fists in the back. The business is at the top of the arch. Bad feet, fingers. Above this, save a yellow Alien. The slab is also hard--mid 11 and protected by a so-so #5 RP. It held for me on one occasion.