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Sunshine Wall
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Arch Nemesis 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Noel Childs, and John Durr
Season: Follow Bird Closures
Page Views: 1,713
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 16, 2008
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Nice route.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route has it all. It starts up a flared ear shape OW that feels hauntingly similar to "Horn's Mother" then blasts out diagonal/arching hands that gradually pinch to tips, you surmount a little step and tiptoe up a thin seam. Fantastic.


Location 

This is left of the landmark routes at Sunshine. It's an arching crack with an ear at the start. There is a one bolt anchor and gear options to back up a TR. A rap off a slung tree gets you back to the base.


Protection 

#4 Camalot down to green or yellow Alien. A couple RPs for the seam up top, I used a BD 4 and 2 RP and they were pretty good.



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Lisa following Arch Nemesis.
Lisa following Arch Nemesis.
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By Olaf Mitchell
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Feb 17, 2008

Bob, you're right, Noel Childs was also involved with this one.

By Scott Bennett
Jan 11, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Very enjoyable, don't be scared off by the OW looking flare at the bottom, it's pretty chill to just layback around it. I did think the seam up top was pretty heady, though, very insecure moves above small gear.
-Scott

By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Aug 6, 2010

Did this a few times in '95-'99. I also remember the flare OW being easy-hand fists in the back. The business is at the top of the arch. Bad feet, fingers. Above this, save a yellow Alien. The slab is also hard--mid 11 and protected by a so-so #5 RP. It held for me on one occasion.