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Flying Buttress
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Arch Enemy 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: burcham/powell
Season: gets sunny southern exposure
Page Views: 3,711
Submitted By: markguycan on Dec 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Following the 5th pitch of Arch Enemy. Although th...

Description 

P1: 5.9 fingers to ow crack. P2: 5.11- climb diagonally left past thin crack to bolted, exposed face over arch. P3: 5.10 hands thru a roof, clip directional bolt then traverse left oonto face (do not climb 10+ bulge/ow.)P4: Climb past many bolts (mostly 5.10) then 5.11+ crux to sustained difficult terraine to bombay squeeze. P5: 5.8ish bolted traverse. P6: Climb 5.10 corner and ow to 4th class and summit!

Location 

approach from "cowpies" trail head off schnebly. Climb is just right of the huge arch visible from the parking area.

Protection 

double set to #3, single #3.5,#4. 10-12draws, 4-6slings.


Photos of Arch Enemy Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing the crux of the second pitch of Arch Ene...
Finishing the crux of the second pitch of Arch Ene...
low on the crux pitch
low on the crux pitch
Extreme Adventure in Sedona AZ. Topo by Kenny Powe...
BETA PHOTO: Extreme Adventure in Sedona AZ. Topo by Kenny Powe...
first step is a big one!
first step is a big one!
rapping past the doodad
rapping past the doodad
Yes this is an amazing pitch!
Yes this is an amazing pitch!

Comments on Arch Enemy Add Comment
Show which comments
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
May 2, 2008

I think the pro could be whittled down to a single rack of cams up to #4 camalot (2 #3s) and med- lg nuts, 10 Quickdraws, 5 long runners. Lot of bolts on route. Do not fail to bring the 3,4 for the last pitch. Summit is worth the trip, as is the rap!
By Mike
From: Phoenix
May 16, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Yet another great Burcham route. This climb has a bit of everything on it.

I second Manny's rack suggestions.
By Steve Skelton
From: Lyttelton, New Zealand
Apr 3, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I think if you're careful with your rope the second and third pitch could go as one, if you're in a hurry.
Only need a single rack to 4 on this climb.
XO
By Dean Hoffman
Jan 11, 2010

What an amazing route! Second pitch was amazing! Actually the whole thing was amazing. We felt that while a single set would work we were glad to have doubles in just a few spots. Don't forget the 3.5 and 4. Crux on the crux pitch was wicked! Overall well protected and well thought out route. Go Do It!!! The rap alone will take your breath away and the last rap station just makes you laugh!
By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Feb 5, 2011

Additional Beta for finding the trailhead as this description leaves some to be desired.
Trailhead Directions: From the "Y" (the intersection of Highway 179 and Highway 89A) go south on Highway 179 about 0.3 mile to Schnebly Hill Road. Turn left on Schnebly Hill and proceed 3.5 miles. The trailhead parking is on your right. Use the far entrance to the parking area as the near entrance is very steep and you have a good chance of hitting the bottom of your vehicle. Schnebly Hill is paved for the first mile and the last 2.5 miles can be a very rough unpaved road. more about the trail here: greatsedonahikes.com/cowpies/c...
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Feb 5, 2013

One of the best I've done in Sedona so far! Watch out for the cactus after the last rap. very well thought out route!
By dsmit
From: Flagstaff, Az
Feb 5, 2013

This climb is super duper fun and well protected. In addition to the recommended rack I would add a blue Metolious size piece to help protect the moves getting to the first bolt on the second pitch. Worth a repeat. Furrrr Shurrr.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 27, 2013

What an amazing climb! As far as rack i would bring singles from small to #4 C4 with 2 .5 C4s. No Nuts if you have a green c3. Linking pitches 2&3 was awesome and helped split crux's between leaders. BTW i would not call the last pitch an OW! There is one pod for a #4 higher up and a tricky slopy sandy move protected by bolts to start. Get on this thing! IT'S RAD
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Give it a break with the green C3! You don't really need anything smaller than blue metolius. Excellent route!