Arcane Saw  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet FA:  M. Brooks, 1982 Submitted By:  Tony B on Nov 16, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. There is a right-facing dihedral hanging up above you. Start climbing just to the right of this, bypassing an overhang to start (8+, pro with 1.5" TCU or cam)and up to another overhang to the two fingercracks visible above, 5-8 feet right of the Schizophrenia dihedral.Continue to the top of the wall on these, which zig-zag a bit though 5.5 moves.

Continue up to the top of this wall, perhaps 40 feet in all to a ledge and belay as for Schizophrenia.

To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.

Protection 

A set of nuts and a set of cams from micros to 2 inches.