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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Arcane Saw 
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Roving for Love 
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Senora (??) 
Senorita 
Shadow 
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Strangle Hold 
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Super Slab Direct Start 
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Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Arcane Saw 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
FA: M. Brooks, 1982
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 16, 2002
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  • Description 

    Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. There is a right-facing dihedral hanging up above you. Start climbing just to the right of this, bypassing an overhang to start (8+, pro with 1.5" TCU or cam)and up to another overhang to the two fingercracks visible above, 5-8 feet right of the Schizophrenia dihedral.Continue to the top of the wall on these, which zig-zag a bit though 5.5 moves.

    Continue up to the top of this wall, perhaps 40 feet in all to a ledge and belay as for Schizophrenia.

    To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.


    Protection 

    A set of nuts and a set of cams from micros to 2 inches.



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    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Apr 3, 2010

    We think we did this route, but we didn't see any reasonable way to do the initial moves, so we stepped from the tree onto the face. After that it was about 5.7 skirting the ceiling on the right. This is an OK route as a 5.7 if you're looking for an end of day climb in this area.