Arc de Triomphe 5.10d PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 9 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Reed Harvey, Frank Klein |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Reed Harvey on Jul 12, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: view of first pitch belay
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Description After two pitches of interesting dihedral climbing, start into the crux traverse pitch. From here, climb a squeeze chimney and continue to the top on beautiful knobs and cracks. The rock quality varies throughout the route, but is generally good but flakey.
Location From the toe of the Parisian Buttress, hike up along the wall to your left until you reach a long, right-facing dihedral. Climb up 30 ft of easy 5th class to reach the base of the route. Descend from the top of the buttress by two 100 ft rappels off the north side. An optional third rappel from a tree gets you to the ground, or downclimb a bushy 3rd class gully.
Protection Standard Rack. Doubles from .4 to 3". Single 4" piece optional. Set of nuts. Total of 6 lead bolts. Few fixed anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at first pitch
| BETA PHOTO: Topo
| View of the 2nd pitch belay.
| The 4th pitch squeeze
| Summit ridge
| BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch belay. 3rd pitch traverses under big roo...
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