|338 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
Jason Seaver about to saunter through the crux on ...
With a style of climbing reminiscent of Mt Arapiles, Australia, this route might also be dubbed "too pumpy for Lumpy". Unlike the bulging calves and thought provoking, veins popping out of the forehead, slabbing that Lumpy has to offer, how about getting your lumps Aussie style? After a short ways up Isis, head up the steep wall that forms the left side of the dihedral, following some flakes, and a black water streak before moving right to a large flake. A slung hole at the top backed up with a fixed stopper provides the anchor. Note the 11d rating is on the "Arapa-Chumps grading system" which means this one isn't for number chasers as you'll most likely be putting out 5.12 effort while only getting to spray about pulling a 5.11 at the pub. By heck, it's good on ya to be humble, mates. Although only one stars given, this route is a great alternative to the standard Lumpy fare and definitely worth a visit. Enjoy!
One set of stoppers plus TCUs and cams to a #3 Camalot. There's one fixed stopper on the route. You might want an extra #3 Camalot to place before leaving Isis and heading onto the route to keep a downward pull on your following pieces.
Oct 3, 2004
Hey Folks........judging from the only piece of webbing found at the anchor of this route being the original webbing that the FAs left in '95, and the substantial amount of cleaning that was done, no one's probably even thought of climbing this route over the past 10 years. Anyway....it's been cleaned up now and the climbing on it is better than it looks. The other bad rap I've heard about it is that the gear is "funky". That might be true, but I still wouldn't give it an "s". Well maybe a s- but the gear is bomber at the crux. If you're looking for a little variety at Lumpy, this route is worth a try.