|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Tom Seibert, Larry Day, 1974|
|Submitted By:||Chris Chaney on Nov 4, 2006|
|Comments on Arachnid||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By John Shultz
From: Osaka, Japan
Jul 13, 2010
|Great stuff! I love this route. The corner is beautiful. The moves are all there. Don't think I brought anything big for pro and was fine.|
By Miles H
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amazing Classic Climb. Great hands up starting crack.
Pro:Standard rack (Mostly larger: #1s & up) With a #4 extended midway out the roof. Couple extra #2s.
By Alex Whitman
Sep 2, 2011
|I climbed this with a #3 Camelot as my biggest piece. I would not recommend this. I placed it tipped out in the roof where it almost immediately walked far enough in that it opened and fell out. This was my last piece of gear I could fit till the very very top, aka soloing. You will want at least a #4 maybe 2.|
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|i did it with only a #3 and it was fine. Amazing route!|
By Jon Kulikowski
Feb 4, 2013
This is one of my favorite routes of the grade. As far as protection goes, here's my beta:
2-3 #1 Camalots for the initial crack, extending the top one with a double-length runner.
#3 Camalot vertically in the constriction, extended with single-length runner.
#.75 or #1 Camolot in horizontal pocket on face just below lip, extended with single-length runner.
#3 Camalot at the top of the wide crack.
Optional: #2 Camalot 3' above last piece.
Doing this instead of using a big piece in the wide section will prevent you from blowing the gear when you pass it.
Mar 17, 2014
Loved this route...used 6 pieces...gear beat spoiler alert!!!
@10' used a #1,
@ 20' used a #2,
@ 25-30' used a #10 nut with double length runner to minimize drag...
Ran out the entire traverse under the roof...
Didn't want to lose any gear here...cams walking up into roof is highly probable...
@ 35' up...To the right of the roof lip, on face...used a #4 in a large deep horizontal...yes it's there and I thought it was pretty good.
@45' used a #3 in a vertical slot where the offwidth narrows
Ran out 15' on 5.7 terrain and
@ 65-70' used a #.75 as last piece.
My favorite climb at red...and this includes many 10s and 11s I got on.