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starting up the route
Fun route with a great and intense variety of moves that starts on the face to the left of Dumpster Does Duffles, the very last route on the bluff. It's a good idea to stick clip the first bolt. A strenuous lieback with fingertips on the face leads you to a sandy ledge where you can regain your composure. Then launch into the strange sequence of moves to get you up the bulge and into the corner, launch up and left to the sharp tooth, and pull up onto easier territory. Overall, a winner. Have heard several people say that they think that it's a little easier than 11d which the guidebook gives it. I'll probably stick with 11d. Let's get a concensus going here.
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
You can TR this route from the route to the right (Dumpster Does Duffles) if you lead that one.
By Bob Kryzer
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Very fun route. The roof section isn't has bad as it seems. The start is kind of strenuous with the crux going for the tooth or horn feature just above the big roof.