Aquarius  5.12d

4,677 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12c/d [details] FA:  John Mallery, 1990 Submitted By:  Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Tim on Acquarius
Photo by Jay Conway

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Aquarius is one of the definitive lines of Rumney, as it climbs up a vertical quartz streak. Expect fingery technical moves and weight-on-your feet climbing, a welcome change from the arm burning routes nearby.

The initial steep bulge holds the hardest moves on the route (remember to stem) and gives way to a no hands rest on a ledge. From this rest, it is helpful to climb up and left along jugs to clip the high bolt. Next, downclimb back to the ledge. This way, you will have a toprope through the thin, crimpy, face crux.

Once the face crux is passed, the dreaded topout looms above. Though intimidating, it is easy to clip the anchor chain if you lever up from the good holds below. This way, your thrutching and wheezing can be accomlished with toprope protection. Don't grab the chains, as those nearby will verbally assault you if you do. Top out the cliff, like God herself intended.

Location 

Aquarius is the route between Techno and Whip Tide. Look for the quartz. You can't miss it.

Protection 

11 Bolts

Photos of Aquarius Slideshow

Add Photo

a beautiful february day on Aquarius...	interesting Beta on the lower crux of Aquarius...	another shot same beta...
clipping the second to last bolt and getting in to...	Yarding up to make the last clip before going for ...	James on Aquarius.
James working his way through the top of the crux.	Seth on his first trip up Aquarius... i dont need...	One more of seth working out the crux of Aquarius....