|The Right Wall
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Fall, Winter, Spring|
|Page Views: ||675|
|Submitted By: ||JJ Schlick on Jan 20, 2013|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
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Aquarius Rising is a sweet new pitch which starts to the right of Resurrection. Climb up a slender pillar, and mantle the narrow summit. Clip a bolt here, and get ready to bust out some wonderful compression moves that check in around V2 or so. Continue up passing three more bolts (total of four) through a section of technical face climbing to a break 5.10+. Follow a thin crack that quickly widens to good hands to a small roof (at this point Resurrection breaks off right, while Aquarius Rising breaks left).
Stem up and left out the small roof 5.10+. Continue up to rather nice rest below the final section of steep crack. Enjoy the splitter 5.11- thin hands crux, which ends in a fantastically exposed section of perfect hands to perfect jugs to a perfect ledge. Save a #.75, #1, And a #2 Camelot for this section. You can also easily access the anchors of A Wonderful Life on this ledge, if you wanted to throw a TR on it or just take a look.
You can also link the first half of this pitch with the more wild finish of Resurrection for another very solid 5.11/.11+ adventure.
70M rope required, and it is a rough ride to lower off. A better option is to enjoy the belay, as well as, the scenery and bring your partner up. Then rap.
In between Resurrection and Rude Awakening.
4 bolts, doubles from #.3 to #2 Camalot, runners. A #3 or #4 works well as a first piece on the pillar.