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Walk a little downstream from the Shady Grove area to where the creek narrows and hugs the right (East) wall. This route starts by a tree, a bit right (up-stream) from Mulva. There is often a small stack of 'cheater-stones' at the base.
Another great scoop route. This one starts just right (up-stream) of Mulva. A thin face move (hence the cheater stones) leads to the first scoop. Work up through this, then 2 more scoops to the chains.
There is a second pitch that was added later, but I don't personally recommend it. It is 5.12-ish and not bolted very well (IMHO), and we both thought it was scary.
Bolts & chains.
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
An absolutely fabulous route. Three scoops followed by excellent patina edges makes for a unique, classic route. In my opinion this route is better than Mulva but both are not to be missed.
I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt as the starting moves are tricky and the rock seeps.