April Showers 

there is an alternate start to this route which goes at 5.11+. start three feet right of the original start where there are two very small crimpers on the face above the wide crack. move strait up the face to under the roof, then move left and join original route.

I don't think the right-hand start is that much harder than the left (maybe a letter grade). However, they both seem harder than 11a! I think PG13 is a bit misleading. Once you stick the boulder problem (which has a reasonable landing even w/o a pad), it's a few easy (for the grade) moves to your first pro. Then good gear to the anchor.

Wasn't the original start to this route done by leaning across off of a downed tree, so that you essentially started climbing at the thin stand-up? At least that is what it says in one of the older guide books. I have always done the "11d" start which is a few feet to the left of where you make the thin moves up to the overhang. It its really just one semi-dynamic boulder move that is very safe; either you make it or you come off with your feet 2 feet off flat ground. After this opening move the route is 10b. I have never really considered this as doing an 11, just a 5.10 with a hard start. The thin stand-up move is fairly well protected by a good piece that you can double up. It is still a spooky move, though, as only a good belay could keep you off the deck if you blow it.

Yes, the original start used by the FA involved aiding off of a no-longer-existing tree. The "11d" start is to the right, not the left. It's certainly not sustained at 5.11, but it's got a couple 5.11 moves, so 5.11 it is.

Jonathan,

Not sure what start to the right that you are referring to. If you go a few feet to the right of the move up to the overhang then you are on the start of Golden Showers, which is 11a. I have always done the hard standup move start which is to the left. I have always thought this move to be about 11d. Everyone that I have done the route with starts the route on the left. If there is another start squeezed in there somewhere I'll have to give it a go.

David,

Check the grey Dick guide. It will sort out the starts in better detail than I can provide. The right start involves a hard crimp move which is rated 11d. Williams rates the standup start at 11a. I don't think there is that much disparity between the two starts. I also think they are both harder than 11a.

I would grade it 5.11- as the crux is right off the deck -- you have enough time to evaluate, and unlimited attempts. I remember doing something like a side pull with a high step. The rest seemed definitely less than 11.