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k. The Slime Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Blue Stink, The T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
Wasp T 

April Showers 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ants Lemeets, Dick Williams and Jiim McCarthy, 1966 FFA Rich Romano and Fred Yakulic, 1978
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: akline on Oct 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Start about 30 feet right of Falled on Account of Strain at a wide crack near the ground, under a roof about twenty feet up. Boulder up through very thin face using a small pinch/side-pull on the left to reach the next horizontal. move up the thin face (5.9R) until you reach good holds under the roof. Move left the the end of the roof and climb strait up (5.10) until you reach a set of chains.

Protection 

A small bouldering pad for the beginning is nice, then a standard gunks rack will do.


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By akline
Oct 24, 2011

there is an alternate start to this route which goes at 5.11+. start three feet right of the original start where there are two very small crimpers on the face above the wide crack. move strait up the face to under the roof, then move left and join original route.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 16, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I don't think the right-hand start is that much harder than the left (maybe a letter grade). However, they both seem harder than 11a! I think PG13 is a bit misleading. Once you stick the boulder problem (which has a reasonable landing even w/o a pad), it's a few easy (for the grade) moves to your first pro. Then good gear to the anchor.
By David Stowe
Feb 20, 2012

Wasn't the original start to this route done by leaning across off of a downed tree, so that you essentially started climbing at the thin stand-up? At least that is what it says in one of the older guide books. I have always done the "11d" start which is a few feet to the left of where you make the thin moves up to the overhang. It its really just one semi-dynamic boulder move that is very safe; either you make it or you come off with your feet 2 feet off flat ground. After this opening move the route is 10b. I have never really considered this as doing an 11, just a 5.10 with a hard start. The thin stand-up move is fairly well protected by a good piece that you can double up. It is still a spooky move, though, as only a good belay could keep you off the deck if you blow it.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Yes, the original start used by the FA involved aiding off of a no-longer-existing tree. The "11d" start is to the right, not the left. It's certainly not sustained at 5.11, but it's got a couple 5.11 moves, so 5.11 it is.
By David Stowe
Feb 21, 2012

Jonathan,

Not sure what start to the right that you are referring to. If you go a few feet to the right of the move up to the overhang then you are on the start of Golden Showers, which is 11a. I have always done the hard standup move start which is to the left. I have always thought this move to be about 11d. Everyone that I have done the route with starts the route on the left. If there is another start squeezed in there somewhere I'll have to give it a go.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

David,

Check the grey Dick guide. It will sort out the starts in better detail than I can provide. The right start involves a hard crimp move which is rated 11d. Williams rates the standup start at 11a. I don't think there is that much disparity between the two starts. I also think they are both harder than 11a.
By paulmadry
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I would grade it 5.11- as the crux is right off the deck -- you have enough time to evaluate, and unlimited attempts. I remember doing something like a side pull with a high step. The rest seemed definitely less than 11.