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April Fools. Photo by Blitzo.
This route climbs the striking jamcrack, left of a pink wall.
Start in the low-angle section of "Craven Image". Diagonal left until a large left-facing corner is almost reached and belay. Climb this corner to ledges.
Climb the identifying jamcrack to a belay ledge. This is a great pitch!
A long face pitch leads past a bolt to the Slash. Continue to the top.
Pro to 3".
Photo by Blitzo.
James heads up P2. April Fools. 7/2012.
Mar 8, 2007
Perhaps my favorite route at the leap. Crux pitch is airy and spectacular.
A great alternative to more crowded queues...this route has seen a bit more popularity recently....justifiably...
From: Oakland CA
Sep 4, 2007
First pitch is junky and weird 5.7.
Second pitch is fantastic, one of the best crack pitches at the leap! Steep, interesting, spectacular!
From: Vacaville Ca.
Dec 11, 2008
Not sure about Blitzos discription of the first couple pitches. I suppose that's one way of doing it, but certainly not the best approch. Climbing a shallow corner system directly below the second pitch jamcrack in a "direct approach" has been the more popular way to reach the first pitch belay ledge. However this pitch has it's pit-falls as well. It's slightly run out with some finicky gear in spots, and is pretty dirty. This pitch is shown as a dotted line (marked .8r) in a direct line below the second pitch in the falcon guide.
Another approach (which with some traffic and cleaning would prove to be the most enjoyable and aesthetic approach) is to climb the left faceing corner (mistakeingly marked as the true first pitch in the falcon guide with a circled P) to the belay ledge below the jamcrack. This corner climbs a short shallow crack with limited gear then traverses up several feet and to the left on beautiful dikes to gain the main corner system. This corner system climbs a dirty low angle crack for a short distance then turns into a beautifully clean lieback flake that tends slightly out left to a stance under a steep roof which is split by a perfect finger crack heading right. After making the traverse, a short mantle will bring you to the large belay ledge. There are a couple fixed pins (and gear) that make up the anchor. The beautiful handcrack is directly above.
The route now has fixed gear and slings at the first and second pitches making it possible to rap (in two rappels) with a 60m rope, but just barely. Watch the ends of your rope rapping from the second pitch as you will barely make touchdown before the ends slip through your rappel device. For this reason the rapel is somewhat dangerous, so pay attention!
Aug 24, 2010
A way fun route!
Jan 11, 2011
Salamanizer is correct about the first pitch. Do a little bit of zig-zag up a corner then hand traverse under a roof right to the base of the crack. This is fun and well protected. People doing this route should be aware, however, that the pitch above the crack (p3) has some pretty big run-outs on thin gear. The climbing is 5.7, but no screw ups allowed.
To finish the upper head wall, look into Dead Tree Direct, a rarely done gem that climbs the dead center of the highest headwall and finishes at the very top. Great, moderate dike climbing with good pro.
|By Mike McL|
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Apr 29, 2011
Am I crazy or is this on the West Wall? It's to the right of Hospital Corner.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 18, 2011
West wall... Yes!
To the right of Hospital Corner... Yes!
It's actually a very obvious line up the west wall. Look for a splitter crack at the top of the approach trail before it takes a 180 and heads left to Hospital corner etc... The splitter crack starts one pitch off the ground, FYI.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 30, 2011
A kick ass pitch 2 that packs a punch with nearly every move.