April Fools 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Will Niccolls, Ike Nicoll, April 1, 1989. |
| Submitted By: | Una Bonger on Jan 1, 2005 |
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My "profile." Tony Bubb starts up 'April Fools (5....
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Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September MORE INFO >>>
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Description This sport climb is in the complex Dinosaur Mountain area. Find the Court area on Der Zerkle, where you'll see Touch Monkey and Knot Carrot. April Fools starts about 30 feet up the ramp to the left of Touch Monkey. The route climbs the overhanging, pocketed white and brown face for about 60 feet. Excellent position and climbing.
Protection I believe there are 7 protection bolts and a two bolt anchor. When we installed the anchor, we left webbing with a ring to lower from.
By D. Rivers Dec 20, 2003
| This route is harder than 11b. |
By Una Bonger Dec 29, 2003
| It's definitely possible that this route is harder than 11b. Some have said as high as 12a but most I've spoken with believe 11b or 11c. By the way, the first ascent was on April 1, 1989. Will |
By Anonymous Coward Aug 13, 2004
| I also felt this route to be harder than 11b. significantly more difficult than "Touch Monkey". Albeit pretty good. |
By Anonymous Coward Aug 13, 2004
| Should this route be classified as closed since it's a hundred feet or so up the Sunnyside 2 ramp? |
By Dave J Mar 18, 2007
| AC - this route AND Sunnyside 2 are open during the bat closures. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 10, 2007 rating: 5.11b
| April Fools!?!? What I got to the top and couldn't find the anchor, so April Fools? Did I just miss it at twilight? Well, going up and left to the top is mellow enough climbing, but it's a 60' runout to the summit! If you fell, you'd deck for sure. So, where are the anchors relative to the last bolt? Not up and not left... must be right. I ended up on the summit belaying my second from the ground. The crux of this route is harder than some of the other 11s in the area. |
By Will Niccolls Aug 3, 2007
| Tony, it's possible the anchors are gone now, the last time I was on this route was in the late '90s. But I assure you we put in two bolts at the top. As I remember, you go straight up and slightly left of the last bolt, maybe 20 feet at most above that last one. And though my recollection is vague, I think is that there is a slight trough in the rock that one follows. Certainly not a ground fall, if you went for a 60' runout well then your biggest problem is hauling your giant sac around. |
By Ted Lanzano From: Boulder, CO Jun 23, 2008
| Thanks Matt and Paul,and props to you guys for your efforts. It was great updating these routes with you yesterday. There are still routes to be replaced up there, and if anyone is ever interested, let one of us know. |
By Will Niccolls Aug 25, 2008
| Wow! That's fantastic news. Thanks for all your efforts, it is much appreciated. Will |
By Robbie the Dog Jul 5, 2009
| Maybe it was just my head today, but the spaces between the second and third to last bolts felt a little sporty. However, it's pretty easy going, there are a few spots for Aliens/stoppers, and you're probably not as much of a wuss as me. |
By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Aug 13, 2011 rating: 5.11+
| I think the name "April Fool's" is a direct reference to the grade. Also be careful between the second and third to last bolts, as mentioned above. My friend took two repeated ~30 footers right before the second to last bolt. It is solid 5.10 climbing there, and you are pumped from the insecure, slopey crux. It's all air, but my pinky jammed into my ATC :'(. He was probably 20 feet from the deck still, but the FA wasn't messing around with how the bolts are placed. |
By Steve Annecone From: boulder Apr 13, 2012 rating: 5.11d
| Excellent route with a very technical crux and plenty of sustained climbing. I used a small cam before the first (very high) bolt, and a yellow Alien to reduce the big runout (15 ft?) between 4th and 5th bolts. Without this last piece, probably 10+ PG-13 in this section, which isn't too bad if you can do the crux. |
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