Apricot Jam  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  1973 - Bob Rotert, Tom McMillan Submitted By:  GWB on Oct 12, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: All four pitches. The start is barely noticeable w...

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All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 MORE INFO >>> It’s the time of year to welcome back North Carolina’s peregrine falcons. While the peregrine falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Service’s endangered species list in 1999, it remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the peregrine falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species. Thirteen pairs nested in 2010, eight of which were on Forest Service lands. While 2010 appears to have been a good year for the falcons, long-term reproductive success continues to be a concern. Young chicks startled prior to acquiring full flight capability will run off the edge of the cliff attempting to escape the threat. Entry into a closure site after the chicks have hatched but before they can fly will almost certainly cause this response. Closure of the cliffs where peregrine falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site, and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) peregrine falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, 16 USC 703-712). Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young peregrine falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted, and enforced. Entry into or upon the areas defined above is prohibited between January 15 and August 15. Areas are defined by orange painted boundary or posted signs. This closure is in effect whether or not signs are present. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closure in effect MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013, All areas between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed due to local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1: Crux starts down low with a right leaning finger crack/boulder problem. Probably a bit more like solid 5.10 with easy pro. Move up and right then back left to old slings at a ledge under a roof (60').
P2: Climb right then up a fun corner up until it ends then find your way to a mossy ledge (50'). Variation pulls the roof at around 5.10 then up to the ledge.
P3: Follow open book corner til it ends then trend right until you find another good belay stance under a roof (100+').
P4: Move left then up to a roof and traverse to the end finding a nice diving board to belay from (~100').

Location 

Locate a two-trunked tree with a white blaze marking the climbers trail. Apricot Buttress takes the first right possible and meanders along the rim trail to the descent gully. Maneuver your way to the bottom of the steep and precarious gully climbers left of the main NC Wall descent trail. Tattered fixed ropes lead down to boulder on the right (climbers left) and a right facing, overhung face. Start up the crack. Scout out the climb and the descent gully while on the rim trail.

Protection 

Old core shot ropes down the gully and a standard rack up to #3.

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of Apricot Jam. Crux is...