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P1: Crux starts down low with a right leaning finger crack/boulder problem. Probably a bit more like solid 5.10 with easy pro. Move up and right then back left to old slings at a ledge under a roof (60').
P2: Climb right then up a fun corner up until it ends then find your way to a mossy ledge (50'). Variation pulls the roof at around 5.10 then up to the ledge.
P3: Follow open book corner til it ends then trend right until you find another good belay stance under a roof (100+').
P4: Move left then up to a roof and traverse to the end finding a nice diving board to belay from (~100').
Locate a two-trunked tree with a white blaze marking the climbers trail. Apricot Buttress takes the first right possible and meanders along the rim trail to the descent gully. Maneuver your way to the bottom of the steep and precarious gully climbers left of the main NC Wall descent trail. Tattered fixed ropes lead down to boulder on the right (climbers left) and a right facing, overhung face. Start up the crack. Scout out the climb and the descent gully while on the rim trail.
Old core shot ropes down the gully and a standard rack up to #3.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of Apricot Jam. Crux is...
|By michael jones|
Nov 21, 2012
The route decription is really good. One of the finest free climbs of my career. Just beware of that first crux at the bottom. The hard part is to move from start with right hand on flat hold to finger crack just above. I have seen a climber land flat on his back on this one. (wind knocked out of him but okay) If you cannot seem to free this move, place a sky hook on the right hand flat hold and step up with a runner and place a wired nut in the crack above and then pull up and place foot on same hold as hook was. Yes, I know it's an aid move but will get climb started (after a lenghy and difficult approach). The rest of climb is still mostly 5.9+ and a absolute classic. Be careful as this is a very bad place to be hurt.
|By chris mcguigan|
From: belmont, nc
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
5.9? you cant be serious. The start of this thing is a v1-2 boulder problem.