This clean crack is often overlooked. Big fists in a mostly clean corner on 2nd pitch ending at a new bolted anchor/rap station. Stars for the 2nd pitch. Can link P1 and 2.
Just right of Supplication
Other than 3.5 and 4 Camalots I only found a spot for one other piece of gear at the start and a tipped out 3 higher up.
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Jan 30, 2011
I'm surprised this doesn't get done more because it's both an excellent climb and probably the easiest at Arch Rock. This is a good intro to 5.9 OW. The friction is good, the climbing is less than vertical, and you can usually reach in deep for a fist jam. Definitely easier than the 5.9 OW on Midterm, or the 5.9 OW on p2 of Reed's Direct. You can safely protect it with two #4 camalots. Just stick them in and scoot them up with you the whole way. You could do the same with a single #4, but it would be scary.
From: San Jose
Jan 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
very good route to practice hand stacks and calf lock.
About 45 feet of #4 friend and #4C4.
less than vertical, but knee is never in. Too big for fist or capped hands ( for me) too small for arm bar
|By Mark P Thomas|
Jan 26, 2013
From the top of Supplication it appeared that this route is capped by a chockstone and a large hummock. Assuming these two routes share the same anchor, that would be a really crappy end of the climb. Or does this one have separate anchors before/beside that thing? It sure looked like fun, otherwise.