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Apple Strudel, photo: Josh Janes.
Directly up the center up the face, left of Yellow Spur, are two exciting and thought provoking pitches up immaculate and progressively changing banded rock.
At the start, protect (or not) a continually-expanding crack with a tricky 5.10 move up the stacked flakes. The crux is getting past the third bolt, and traversing right under the roof...There are some very cool, intricate moves on some small, razor-like hand and foot holds...After the roof traverse the climbing eases past one more bolt, a bashie and then the anchor.
Pitch two moves left, out the roof, to the lip and requires a an inobvious pull up and over (11). Tiptoe up the awkward, meandering slab past bolts and an occasional nut placement to the easier left facing corner with gear. The big tree atop the ledge has a bunch of slings and rings to rap off of (2 ropes).
QDs for bolts, micro brass (#4RP at start only) and small-large nuts, 2-bolt anchor atop P1, tree with slings atop P2 (165' rap!).
Josh at the baffling crux moves on Apple Strudel.
Josh on Apple Strudel.
Rob is setting up for the crux moves on Apple Stru...
|Comments on Apple Strudel
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 1, 2002
It is possible to rap with a 60m rope in 2 raps, but you need to swing over to the triple bolt anchor atop pitch one to get to those anchors for the second rap. Not too bad.
|By Chris Archer|
Mar 15, 2004
Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 2, 2006
rating: 5.12a PG13
Good route, tricky move just before hitting the overhang and going right. Insecure, but not difficult down low. be careful indeed.
This route would be much easier to beta-flash than to on-sight, I wager, because the crux move is not that hard, just hard to read and anticipate.
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2007
According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc."
From: Morrison, Co
Jan 5, 2013
The 2nd pitch is not to be missed! Lots of great face climbing.