Apple Strudel 5.12a
| 2,694 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | FFA: Achey/Leavitt/Hare, early '80s |
| Fixed Hardware: | 6 Lead Bolts, 3 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001 |
| |
Apple Strudel, photo: Josh Janes.
Add Photo  Printer View
2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
|
|
Description Directly up the center up the face, left of Yellow Spur, are two exciting and thought provoking pitches up immaculate and progressively changing banded rock.
At the start, protect (or not) a continually-expanding crack with a tricky 5.10 move up the stacked flakes. The crux is getting past the third bolt, and traversing right under the roof...There are some very cool, intricate moves on some small, razor-like hand and foot holds...After the roof traverse the climbing eases past one more bolt, a bashie and then the anchor.
Pitch two moves left, out the roof, to the lip and requires a an inobvious pull up and over (11). Tiptoe up the awkward, meandering slab past bolts and an occasional nut placement to the easier left facing corner with gear. The big tree atop the ledge has a bunch of slings and rings to rap off of (2 ropes).
Protection QDs for bolts, micro brass (#4RP at start only) and small-large nuts, 2-bolt anchor atop P1, tree with slings atop P2 (165' rap!).
Josh at the baffling crux moves on Apple Strudel.
|
Josh on Apple Strudel.
|
Rob is setting up for the crux moves on Apple Stru...
| | | |
| Comments on Apple Strudel |
|
By Anonymous Coward
May 1, 2002
| It is possible to rap with a 60m rope in 2 raps, but you need to swing over to the triple bolt anchor atop pitch one to get to those anchors for the second rap. Not too bad. |
By Chris Archer
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.12b
| Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 2, 2006
rating: 5.12a PG13
| Good route, tricky move just before hitting the overhang and going right. Insecure, but not difficult down low. be careful indeed.
This route would be much easier to beta-flash than to on-sight, I wager, because the crux move is not that hard, just hard to read and anticipate. |
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2007
| According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc." |
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Jan 5, 2013
rating: 5.12a
| The 2nd pitch is not to be missed! Lots of great face climbing. |
|
RSS Feed
52 more...
Slideshow
