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Apparition Rock
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Apparition 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,458
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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My first time on this climb, March 1993

Description 

Apparition is the right-trending handcrack and centerpiece on Apparition Rock. The crux lies about 1/3 of the way up. This fun route should not be missed!

Belay off of slung boulder. Webbing as of 1/2/03 is in good shape.

Descend via 4th class gully to climber's left.


Protection 

To 3", with doubles in the #1 and #2 Camalot sizes.



Photos of Apparition Slideshow Add Photo
Apparition Rock
BETA PHOTO: Apparition Rock
Mike Morley tops out on Apparition.
Mike Morley tops out on Apparition.
Shana Lauer works the lower section of Apparition.
Shana Lauer works the lower section of Apparition.
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Comments on Apparition Add Comment
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By Josh Beck
Jan 20, 2003

I've always downclimbed over the other side, a bit to the climber's right. Involves maybe 10-15' of 4th class crack downclimbing as I recall, pretty straightforward. No need for a rap station and definitely not a tricky descent by Joshua Tree standards.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 24, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wow, this one got my attention! Looks easy from below but forced me into some quite technical positions, with a stiff little pull over the bulge and onto the hand-rail. Way fun finishing crack. Recommended for those training for a trip to UK Grit!
By Brian Reynolds
Nov 25, 2003

I don't know ... I was probably making it harder than it had to be, but Apparition was by far the toughest downclimb that I've had to do at Josh. After a lot of trial and error, I came down over to the left of the front side of the formation, but it really sucked! A rap setup on top would have been really welcome!
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 6, 2004

We descended one gully further to the left (looking up, as in the photo). It was easy.
By Darren D.
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A technical crux down low than a nice hand crack as icing on the cake. The rap slings are getting a little out of hand.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Gritty but fun! The slings and rap rings looked fine to us, so we selected the easy route. Of course, we had 50 mph winds and occasional hail to contend with... so the choice was pretty easy :) Bring a nice selection of gear from small (yellow alien) to #3 camalot + some long slings.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route, especially considering some of the others on the wall. Soft for the grade, good for those breaking into 10s.
By attila
Feb 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is one of my favorite climbs at JT. It requires a wide variety of techniques, the rock quality is high, and the pro is good. The slung anchors appear adequate. I prefer rapping off, but I also was able to find a easy downclimb (5.0?) off the back side. This route is not 5.10. It's more like a 5.9 with sections that require several strenuous moves in a row, made swiftly and with confidence.
By BRegan
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 21, 2010

Belayers beware. There is a big bush growing out of the rock 8-10 feet off of the ground, see photo posted. Since that picture (Lauery) the block below it has fallen off. The block immediately above this bush is loose, you will be tempted to stand on it.
By Avi Katz
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Belay anchor at the top is intact and in good shape as of 1/5/13. Great route