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 ADVANCED
Carcass Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2-Pitch Route S 
Alternative Power S 
Appalling Travesty S 
Goin' Postal S 
Progress S 
Who's Your Daddy S 
Worthless Stud T,S 

Appalling Travesty 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 239
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Aug 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Description 

    Furthest route right at the crag, and arguably the least enjoyed.

    Tenuous moves off the deck lead to a short face, capped by a brief slab, finishing with a traverse left to a somewhat heads-up section before the anchor.

    Though this is a short route at a relatively moderate grade, the final 12 feet is above your last bolt.

    Location 

    Last route on the right end

    Protection 

    3 bolts


    Comments on Appalling Travesty Add Comment
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    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    May 7, 2015

    This route received a hardware replacement on May 7th 2015. In the process it was discovered that the second bolt was in hollow rock and it was moved up about a foot and a half into better rock. Bolt 1 was also moved a foot up to keep spacing similar. I don't believe this should change the difficulty of clipping either bolt but let me know if you think it does and we can try to improve things. It's also worth noting that the section of rock that forms the overlap between the first and second bolt might continue to detach over time and the re-positioned second bolt may once again be in hollow rock in another 16 years.
    By Derek Doucet
    May 8, 2015

    Thanks for the effort, Greg.

    The crux bolts on Progress and Who's Your Daddy should be replaced at some point as well. Both protect probable ground falls and are the original hardware. With the dramatic increase in traffic these routes are seeing these days, glue-ins are probably the way to go. Not suggesting you need to do the deed, by the way, just making an observation.

    Once again, thanks for taking the initiative.
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